With almost 200,000 visitors expected to descend on Bologna for this year’s edition of Cosmopack and Cosmoprof Worldwide, Cynthia Martens asked Italy’s top suppliers for a sneak preview of the innovations they’ll be showing.
ANCOROTTI COSMETICS Founded by Renato Ancorotti and his daughter Enrica in 2009, Ancorotti Cosmetics started off specializing in high-tech mascara, which accounted for 75 percent of its sales in 2013. Now, the firm is expanding with a skin-care line and offices in Badi, India, to create products for Southeast Asia. At Cosmoprof, Ancorotti is launching a nutrient-rich lipstick that hydrates and has a diamondlike sparkle.
CHROMAVIS The makeup and skin-care specialist is set to unveil Metamorphosis, a superfine wet-powder compact that can be used for a regular face powder, bronzer or blush. Each compact will make use of various shades of color, which become marbleized when pressed, creating textured, lustrous reflections. INTERCOS Intercos is renowned for its cutting-edge skin-care research and consistently trendy makeup offerings. This year, look for futuristic, fluid-effect powders for the face and eyes called Fluid Factor, which leave a barely-there color film on the skin. The formula utilizes special pigment coatings that unite solid and liquid phases to give a creamy consistency.
LEOPLAST Specializing in lipstick, gloss and beauty cases, Leoplast uses recycled materials and bioplastics for its eco-friendly production plants in Italy. This year it will show its line of eco-certified polypropylene colors, as well as a laser-etching technology that allows for elaborate packaging designs without inks or solvents.
NASTRI-TEX This family-run operation based outside Milan is one of the few textile firms focused on cosmetics rather than fashion, producing the cloth strips used in powder compression. Last year, Nastri-Tex introduced cloth swatches with drawings on them, allowing companies to print motifs on powder without using metal presses that are expensive to change with each new design. This year’s launch, called Frame, builds on that development by allowing for multicolored designs.
Road Trip! Planning a side trip to Milan during Cosmoprof? If so, check out these two new hot spots.
Alyson Oldoini With a degree in painting restoration from the prestigious Brera Academy, Italian noblewoman Alyson Oldoini was eager to find an outlet for her creativity. Last fall, she launched an eponymous brand of fragrances, and in April will open her first boutique at 21 Via Montenapoleone. Currently, the line offers three women’s and three men’s eaux de parfum ($465 each), all created by perfumer Benoist Lapouza. Oldoini herself designed the luminous, mirrorlike bottles. “Perfume should reflect your personality,” she says, noting her favorite is Oranger Moi, which contains notes of orange blossom, ginger and tumeric. Zazà Ramen Looking for a place to eat, but tired of spaghetti Bolognese? The newly opened Zazà Ramen is a fresh alternative in the land of pasta. Located in Milan’s posh Brera neighborhood, Zazà Ramen blends Japanese minimalism with Italian class, offering two types of homemade ramen served with a seemingly unlimited variety of meats, fish and vegetables. Dutch-born chef Brendan Becht and Japanese entrepreneur Kevin Ageishi teamed up to create the restaurant, naming it after a fictional manga police inspector who is especially fond of ramen. Prices start at $13. Via Solferino, 48
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)