With almost 200,000 visitors expected to descend on Bologna for this year’s edition of Cosmopack and Cosmoprof Worldwide, Cynthia Martens asked Italy’s top suppliers for a sneak preview of the innovations they’ll be showing.
ANCOROTTI COSMETICS Founded by Renato Ancorotti and his daughter Enrica in 2009, Ancorotti Cosmetics started off specializing in high-tech mascara, which accounted for 75 percent of its sales in 2013. Now, the firm is expanding with a skin-care line and offices in Badi, India, to create products for Southeast Asia. At Cosmoprof, Ancorotti is launching a nutrient-rich lipstick that hydrates and has a diamondlike sparkle.
CHROMAVIS The makeup and skin-care specialist is set to unveil Metamorphosis, a superfine wet-powder compact that can be used for a regular face powder, bronzer or blush. Each compact will make use of various shades of color, which become marbleized when pressed, creating textured, lustrous reflections. INTERCOS Intercos is renowned for its cutting-edge skin-care research and consistently trendy makeup offerings. This year, look for futuristic, fluid-effect powders for the face and eyes called Fluid Factor, which leave a barely-there color film on the skin. The formula utilizes special pigment coatings that unite solid and liquid phases to give a creamy consistency.
LEOPLAST Specializing in lipstick, gloss and beauty cases, Leoplast uses recycled materials and bioplastics for its eco-friendly production plants in Italy. This year it will show its line of eco-certified polypropylene colors, as well as a laser-etching technology that allows for elaborate packaging designs without inks or solvents.
NASTRI-TEX This family-run operation based outside Milan is one of the few textile firms focused on cosmetics rather than fashion, producing the cloth strips used in powder compression. Last year, Nastri-Tex introduced cloth swatches with drawings on them, allowing companies to print motifs on powder without using metal presses that are expensive to change with each new design. This year’s launch, called Frame, builds on that development by allowing for multicolored designs.
Road Trip! Planning a side trip to Milan during Cosmoprof? If so, check out these two new hot spots.
Alyson Oldoini With a degree in painting restoration from the prestigious Brera Academy, Italian noblewoman Alyson Oldoini was eager to find an outlet for her creativity. Last fall, she launched an eponymous brand of fragrances, and in April will open her first boutique at 21 Via Montenapoleone. Currently, the line offers three women’s and three men’s eaux de parfum ($465 each), all created by perfumer Benoist Lapouza. Oldoini herself designed the luminous, mirrorlike bottles. “Perfume should reflect your personality,” she says, noting her favorite is Oranger Moi, which contains notes of orange blossom, ginger and tumeric. Zazà Ramen Looking for a place to eat, but tired of spaghetti Bolognese? The newly opened Zazà Ramen is a fresh alternative in the land of pasta. Located in Milan’s posh Brera neighborhood, Zazà Ramen blends Japanese minimalism with Italian class, offering two types of homemade ramen served with a seemingly unlimited variety of meats, fish and vegetables. Dutch-born chef Brendan Becht and Japanese entrepreneur Kevin Ageishi teamed up to create the restaurant, naming it after a fictional manga police inspector who is especially fond of ramen. Prices start at $13. Via Solferino, 48
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion