With almost 200,000 visitors expected to descend on Bologna for this year’s edition of Cosmopack and Cosmoprof Worldwide, Cynthia Martens asked Italy’s top suppliers for a sneak preview of the innovations they’ll be showing.
ANCOROTTI COSMETICS Founded by Renato Ancorotti and his daughter Enrica in 2009, Ancorotti Cosmetics started off specializing in high-tech mascara, which accounted for 75 percent of its sales in 2013. Now, the firm is expanding with a skin-care line and offices in Badi, India, to create products for Southeast Asia. At Cosmoprof, Ancorotti is launching a nutrient-rich lipstick that hydrates and has a diamondlike sparkle.
CHROMAVIS The makeup and skin-care specialist is set to unveil Metamorphosis, a superfine wet-powder compact that can be used for a regular face powder, bronzer or blush. Each compact will make use of various shades of color, which become marbleized when pressed, creating textured, lustrous reflections. INTERCOS Intercos is renowned for its cutting-edge skin-care research and consistently trendy makeup offerings. This year, look for futuristic, fluid-effect powders for the face and eyes called Fluid Factor, which leave a barely-there color film on the skin. The formula utilizes special pigment coatings that unite solid and liquid phases to give a creamy consistency.
LEOPLAST Specializing in lipstick, gloss and beauty cases, Leoplast uses recycled materials and bioplastics for its eco-friendly production plants in Italy. This year it will show its line of eco-certified polypropylene colors, as well as a laser-etching technology that allows for elaborate packaging designs without inks or solvents.
NASTRI-TEX This family-run operation based outside Milan is one of the few textile firms focused on cosmetics rather than fashion, producing the cloth strips used in powder compression. Last year, Nastri-Tex introduced cloth swatches with drawings on them, allowing companies to print motifs on powder without using metal presses that are expensive to change with each new design. This year’s launch, called Frame, builds on that development by allowing for multicolored designs.
Road Trip! Planning a side trip to Milan during Cosmoprof? If so, check out these two new hot spots.
Alyson Oldoini With a degree in painting restoration from the prestigious Brera Academy, Italian noblewoman Alyson Oldoini was eager to find an outlet for her creativity. Last fall, she launched an eponymous brand of fragrances, and in April will open her first boutique at 21 Via Montenapoleone. Currently, the line offers three women’s and three men’s eaux de parfum ($465 each), all created by perfumer Benoist Lapouza. Oldoini herself designed the luminous, mirrorlike bottles. “Perfume should reflect your personality,” she says, noting her favorite is Oranger Moi, which contains notes of orange blossom, ginger and tumeric. Zazà Ramen Looking for a place to eat, but tired of spaghetti Bolognese? The newly opened Zazà Ramen is a fresh alternative in the land of pasta. Located in Milan’s posh Brera neighborhood, Zazà Ramen blends Japanese minimalism with Italian class, offering two types of homemade ramen served with a seemingly unlimited variety of meats, fish and vegetables. Dutch-born chef Brendan Becht and Japanese entrepreneur Kevin Ageishi teamed up to create the restaurant, naming it after a fictional manga police inspector who is especially fond of ramen. Prices start at $13. Via Solferino, 48
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews