With almost 200,000 visitors expected to descend on Bologna for this year’s edition of Cosmopack and Cosmoprof Worldwide, Cynthia Martens asked Italy’s top suppliers for a sneak preview of the innovations they’ll be showing.
ANCOROTTI COSMETICS Founded by Renato Ancorotti and his daughter Enrica in 2009, Ancorotti Cosmetics started off specializing in high-tech mascara, which accounted for 75 percent of its sales in 2013. Now, the firm is expanding with a skin-care line and offices in Badi, India, to create products for Southeast Asia. At Cosmoprof, Ancorotti is launching a nutrient-rich lipstick that hydrates and has a diamondlike sparkle.
CHROMAVIS The makeup and skin-care specialist is set to unveil Metamorphosis, a superfine wet-powder compact that can be used for a regular face powder, bronzer or blush. Each compact will make use of various shades of color, which become marbleized when pressed, creating textured, lustrous reflections. INTERCOS Intercos is renowned for its cutting-edge skin-care research and consistently trendy makeup offerings. This year, look for futuristic, fluid-effect powders for the face and eyes called Fluid Factor, which leave a barely-there color film on the skin. The formula utilizes special pigment coatings that unite solid and liquid phases to give a creamy consistency.
LEOPLAST Specializing in lipstick, gloss and beauty cases, Leoplast uses recycled materials and bioplastics for its eco-friendly production plants in Italy. This year it will show its line of eco-certified polypropylene colors, as well as a laser-etching technology that allows for elaborate packaging designs without inks or solvents.
NASTRI-TEX This family-run operation based outside Milan is one of the few textile firms focused on cosmetics rather than fashion, producing the cloth strips used in powder compression. Last year, Nastri-Tex introduced cloth swatches with drawings on them, allowing companies to print motifs on powder without using metal presses that are expensive to change with each new design. This year’s launch, called Frame, builds on that development by allowing for multicolored designs.
Road Trip! Planning a side trip to Milan during Cosmoprof? If so, check out these two new hot spots.
Alyson Oldoini With a degree in painting restoration from the prestigious Brera Academy, Italian noblewoman Alyson Oldoini was eager to find an outlet for her creativity. Last fall, she launched an eponymous brand of fragrances, and in April will open her first boutique at 21 Via Montenapoleone. Currently, the line offers three women’s and three men’s eaux de parfum ($465 each), all created by perfumer Benoist Lapouza. Oldoini herself designed the luminous, mirrorlike bottles. “Perfume should reflect your personality,” she says, noting her favorite is Oranger Moi, which contains notes of orange blossom, ginger and tumeric. Zazà Ramen Looking for a place to eat, but tired of spaghetti Bolognese? The newly opened Zazà Ramen is a fresh alternative in the land of pasta. Located in Milan’s posh Brera neighborhood, Zazà Ramen blends Japanese minimalism with Italian class, offering two types of homemade ramen served with a seemingly unlimited variety of meats, fish and vegetables. Dutch-born chef Brendan Becht and Japanese entrepreneur Kevin Ageishi teamed up to create the restaurant, naming it after a fictional manga police inspector who is especially fond of ramen. Prices start at $13. Via Solferino, 48
Donatella Versace will receive the International Award at the 2018 @cfda awards, which were announced tonight. Tap link in bio for a list of all the nominees and honorees. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @rahirezvanistudio )
The 2018 @cfda Awards nominees are out! @virgilabloh for @off____white for is nominated for Womenswear Designer of the Year. Tap link in bio for all the nominees. #wwdnews #wwdfashion ( 📷: @simonelezzi)
@chanelofficial is suing high-end vintage retailer @whatgoesaroundnyc for trademark infringement, a move that could cost the retailer millions. The French fashion house claims that it’s not only unintentionally sold counterfeit goods on occasion, but that it’s “gone out of its way to create an association with Chanel,” which does not exist. Read Chanel’s statement on WWD.com #wwdnews (@aitorrosasphoto)
Exclusive: Guillaume Henry has left @ninaricci, the fashion house said on Thursday. “After three years of mutually gratifying creative collaboration, Nina Ricci and Guillaume Henry have together decided that the designer will depart the house after the presentation of the fall-winter 2018-19 collection,” Ricci said in a statement. Get all the details on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
“When Bella enters a room all heads turn,” said @peterphilipsmakeup, creative and image director for @diormakeup. Last night, the two celebrated the product launch of Dior’s Lacquer Plump in Los Angeles with other celebs like @parisjackson, @winnieharlow and more. Head to WWD.com to see the rest of the photos from the night (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
“These shirts are an art form, it’s about getting the message out to as many people as you can. It breaks down the pretentiousness of the art gallery,” says Kumasi Sadiki, cofounder of @ebayontheblock, a store that sells merchandise by New York artists who are shifting their attention to clothes as a wearable medium. Pictured here is a design by artist @joegarvey_, one of the first to spearhead this movement. Head to WWD.com to read @mistywhitesidell full story on how their designs have become merch for the underground elite #wwdfashion
@netaporter is dedicating a part of its website – called the Fine Jewelry and Watch Destination – to highlight its high-end jewelry. The hub will feature products on the site, as well as incorporate styling advice and educational content about high-priced jewelry items. Get more details on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories
For “The Cher Show,” an upcoming musical based on @cher’s life and career, @bobmackie is once again collaborating with the singer in designing the costumes. For decades, Mackie has designed glitzy stage costumes and red carpet looks for the 71-year-old Grammy winner. Pictured here is a sketch of some of the pieces in the wardrobe of the musical, which is set to debut in Chicago on June 12 before making its way to Broadway #wwdeye