With almost 200,000 visitors expected to descend on Bologna for this year’s edition of Cosmopack and Cosmoprof Worldwide, Cynthia Martens asked Italy’s top suppliers for a sneak preview of the innovations they’ll be showing.
ANCOROTTI COSMETICS Founded by Renato Ancorotti and his daughter Enrica in 2009, Ancorotti Cosmetics started off specializing in high-tech mascara, which accounted for 75 percent of its sales in 2013. Now, the firm is expanding with a skin-care line and offices in Badi, India, to create products for Southeast Asia. At Cosmoprof, Ancorotti is launching a nutrient-rich lipstick that hydrates and has a diamondlike sparkle.
CHROMAVIS The makeup and skin-care specialist is set to unveil Metamorphosis, a superfine wet-powder compact that can be used for a regular face powder, bronzer or blush. Each compact will make use of various shades of color, which become marbleized when pressed, creating textured, lustrous reflections. INTERCOS Intercos is renowned for its cutting-edge skin-care research and consistently trendy makeup offerings. This year, look for futuristic, fluid-effect powders for the face and eyes called Fluid Factor, which leave a barely-there color film on the skin. The formula utilizes special pigment coatings that unite solid and liquid phases to give a creamy consistency.
LEOPLAST Specializing in lipstick, gloss and beauty cases, Leoplast uses recycled materials and bioplastics for its eco-friendly production plants in Italy. This year it will show its line of eco-certified polypropylene colors, as well as a laser-etching technology that allows for elaborate packaging designs without inks or solvents.
NASTRI-TEX This family-run operation based outside Milan is one of the few textile firms focused on cosmetics rather than fashion, producing the cloth strips used in powder compression. Last year, Nastri-Tex introduced cloth swatches with drawings on them, allowing companies to print motifs on powder without using metal presses that are expensive to change with each new design. This year’s launch, called Frame, builds on that development by allowing for multicolored designs.
Road Trip! Planning a side trip to Milan during Cosmoprof? If so, check out these two new hot spots.
Alyson Oldoini With a degree in painting restoration from the prestigious Brera Academy, Italian noblewoman Alyson Oldoini was eager to find an outlet for her creativity. Last fall, she launched an eponymous brand of fragrances, and in April will open her first boutique at 21 Via Montenapoleone. Currently, the line offers three women’s and three men’s eaux de parfum ($465 each), all created by perfumer Benoist Lapouza. Oldoini herself designed the luminous, mirrorlike bottles. “Perfume should reflect your personality,” she says, noting her favorite is Oranger Moi, which contains notes of orange blossom, ginger and tumeric. Zazà Ramen Looking for a place to eat, but tired of spaghetti Bolognese? The newly opened Zazà Ramen is a fresh alternative in the land of pasta. Located in Milan’s posh Brera neighborhood, Zazà Ramen blends Japanese minimalism with Italian class, offering two types of homemade ramen served with a seemingly unlimited variety of meats, fish and vegetables. Dutch-born chef Brendan Becht and Japanese entrepreneur Kevin Ageishi teamed up to create the restaurant, naming it after a fictional manga police inspector who is especially fond of ramen. Prices start at $13. Via Solferino, 48
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty