By  on February 7, 2013

Backstage at Lisa Perry, lead makeup artist Gucci Westman didn’t want to rely on the go-to interpretation of Sixties beauty: she set out to update it. “It’s retro feeling, but instead of using straight black [on the eyelid], which is very Sixties, I’m using color,” said Westman, Revlon’s global artistic director. “It’s a little more contemporary especially now that color is so big.”

On eyelids, Westman used either purple or blue — depending on the girl’s complexion — to create a color-infused iteration of a wing. First she applied Fantasy Lengths Maximum Wear Glue-On Lashes, in Intensifying and Wispy, then defined eyes with Revlon ColorStay Liquid Eye Pen in Blackest Black and Eyeliner in Brown. She also used a soft “dove gray” liner on the water line, called PhotoReady Kajal Intense Eyeliner + Brightener in Blue Nile, which will roll out in June. On lids, Westman used Free Spirit, her new spring palette that will launch in April, or Muse, part of her Evening Opulence collection, set to launch this fall. Faces were given a dose of liveliness with Photo Ready Bronzer in Bronzed and Chic. “I’m using a touch of the bronzer as a contour and just as a bit of warmth,” said Westman, who dabbed Revlon ColorBurst Lip Butter in Sugar Frosting and Cupcake on lips. For Westman, her spring range “is all is about sporty glamour. It’s color, it’s happy; there’s definitely some fun. The colors [teals and bright blues] are really vibrant.” Meanwhile, looking to fall, Westman said, “Fall is over the top embellished, gorgeous, super polished, really chic. It’s a girl who’s done. She’s super elegant.”

Westman’s overall beauty philosophy? “I always feel like a modern girl should be able to wear makeup and go out and do something without it being so fussy,” she said. “It’s about not having to compromise what she’s doing because she’s concerned about her makeup.” For spring, Westman said,“I really am excited about colorful eyeliner and how in certain instances can replace shadow. It’s the new bold lipstick.”

Hair, styled by Chris Lospalluto, for VO5 and Sally Hershberger, was meant to reference the “effortlessly cool” beauty icons of the time like Jean Shrimpton, Charlotte Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin, with a deconstructed air. “We know Lisa Perry loves the Sixties and pop,” said Lospalluto, who created two different looks. One was a play on a French twist, with volume at the crown and “nesty” texture, the other a classic ponytail with the same look on the top. “We wanted the sides really, really clean and tight,” said Lospalluto, who “twisted in” the back and “left the ends out to keep it really modern. We didn’t want it too be poufy and shellacked and not moveable,” he said, adding, “Still when you look at the silhouette, you think this is Sixties.” To achieve the desired amount of volume at the roots, Lospalluto misted in Evian water and a Phyto’s Phytovolume, then rough dried completely with a blow drier and hands, and teased and backcombed for height. “The idea is to build it really high then mold with your fingers to get the profile you really want,” he said. Looking forward to spring, Lospalluto said he is most excited for bangs and short cuts. “I think it’s exciting to watch girls chop their hair off,” he said, adding, “Bangs have made a really great comeback. There’s a throwback to Seventies French girls with that soft wispy fringe. [Girls] don’t necessarily have to do the blunt Naomi bang. They can keep it soft.”

Nails, done by Jin Soon Choi, founder of the JINsoon Nail Spas and the JINsoon Nail Lacquer Line, were “neutral but not.” Choi, for Revlon, rounded out the nail shape for into a “sophisticated” look in a short or medium length. “Instead of using beige — which is very Sixties — we are trying to express modernity,” said Choi, who used Revlon ColorStay Longwear Nail Enamel in Provence, a “gray lavender” color, paired with a shiny topcoat. “It’s still classic but with a twist.”

When it came to nail color trends for spring, Choi, predicted bright, botanical polishes and round “feminine” shapes. “Not neon, because that is limiting to the audience, but happy bright colors [found in nature], like lilac, coral and blue.” Looking later into the year, Choi said, “Fall is going to be very edgy and sophisticated.”

To access this article, click here to subscribe or to log in.

To access this article, click here to subscribe or to log in.

load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus