PARIS – When hairstylist Eugene Souleiman saw Yohji Yamamoto’s spring-summer collection, pilgrims came to mind. “I wanted to make [the models] kind of look ‘Victorian-esque,’” he explained.
However, Souleiman felt he needed to interject of some kind of madness or abstraction to the strictness of the Victorian period.
“That’s where the rolls come from,” he said, referring to the mounds of hair perched on models’ heads. “They’re matted, backcombed and dry. So you kind of feel that this person can’t really tame them – this wildness that’s within.”
“Yohji just wanted something really bright and in a way futuristic, modern,” commented makeup artist Pat McGrath, who opted to swath models’ mouths in a deep violet plum color that also appears in the designer’s collection.
Models’ skin was kept natural and transparent-looking, and McGrath contoured around their eyes.