As inextricably linked as beauty and fashion are, the former has historically taken a backseat to the latter. Beauty was commerce, not art—a sideshow, rather than the main event. Anyone who’s been backstage at a fashion show recently, though, knows that’s no longer the case. From trend creation to product ideation, a business platform for emerging brands to a breeding ground for burgeoning talent, the runway is now as much about what’s going on above the neck as below it. Even Vogue recently ran a cover story on makeup superstar Pat McGrath. This issue of WWD Beauty Biz is the ultimate guide to the convergence of fashion and beauty, starting with a veritable backstage bonanza from London, New York, Milan and Paris in “Project Runway” on page 32. Beauty-wise, each city has its own particular strength—New York often drives red-carpet trends in Hollywood and beyond, for example, while Paris is the epicenter of creativity and artistry. What each city has in common, though, is the number of hair and makeup companies sponsoring shows, all vying for attention. While once backstage was the primary domain of MAC Cosmetics, now brands big and small ply their wares there. Discover who the major players are in “A Common Thread” on page 28, and whether their attempts to monetize runway efforts into retail sales are succeeding.One area where sales have not been a problem is the realm of designer fragrances—the category rings up almost $2 billion annually in the U.S. alone. Although celebrity scents have dominated in the last few years, the designer category came roaring back for fall. But as Molly Prior reports, ideas for designers’ scents “don’t simply march off the runways. Behind each one is a team of designers in their own right.” Meet the behind-the-scenes teams in “What Goes Inside” on page 40, then turn to “The Candid Kors” for an exclusive conversation with Michael Kors on his methods for making a mint at the fragrance counter.In this issue, you’ll notice another change as well: WWD Beauty Biz has a new look. Created by art director Pamela Olecki, our new design combines clarity, boldness and confidence—not unlike our cover model, Sasha Pivovarova. Pivovarova’s story truly is one dreams are made of: Just two weeks after her photographer husband sent pictures of her to the modeling agency IMG, she opened the Prada show. That was two years ago. Now, she’s on a first-name basis with the fashion cognoscenti, a status that the 12 young models in “The Catwalk’s Meow” on page 22 no doubt hope to reach soon. Meticulously researched by WWD bookings editor Cinnamon St. John, they represent the freshest faces of the spring 2008 season—and we think you’ll find their looks as striking as our own.
To celebrate Pride 2018, @themarcjacobs released the #GratefulNotHateful campaign, a social media initiative aimed at extending Pride beyond the parade. Inspired by Jacobs’ everyday outlook, the campaign features Jacobs along with a group of models and social media stars who are members and supporters of the LGBT community, all seen wearing @marcbeauty’s Highliner Gel Eye Crayons in colors of the rainbow. Head to our Instagram stories to see close-ups of the liner. #wwdbeauty
Virgil Abloh’s dad Nee and Don Crawley, cofounder of RSVP Gallery, were some of the hometown crew at the Chicago-born designer’s debut show for Louis Vuitton. (📸: @jdiderich ) #wwdmens #louisvuitton #virgilabloh
About last night: @marycharteris and @adwoaaboah hit up Hyde Park for the Serpentine Galleries’ annual summer party held in partnership with @chanelofficial. Head to WWD.com to see more photos. #wwdfashion
“This is Paris, my first show. I’m all about democracy. If some kid shows up, flew from New Jersey to just be around, let’s get him a seat.” — @virgilabloh tells WWD’s @jdiderich ahead of his first show for @louisvuitton men’s. (📸: @alfredo_piola ) #wwdmens #virgilabloh #louisvuitton
“Kate Spade was a true fashion icon who brought joy to the lives of women around the world, and inspired women to live life to the fullest. We are dedicated to carrying on her legacy,” said Anna Bakst, brand president and chief executive officer of @katespadeny. The Kate Spade Foundation announced that it will be donating $1 million to suicide prevention and mental health awareness in tribute to the recent death of Kate Spade. Read more on WWD.com. #wwdnews (📷: @chinseephoto)
A first look at @virgilabloh’s sneakers for @louisvuitton. Abloh spoke to WWD about his debut collection for Louis Vuitton, creating @kendalljenner’s #metgala outfit and redefining the heritage brand. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion 📷: @alfredo_piola)
The world’s largest producer of denim @iskodenim is sharing the strategy behind its product development process. Read our full interview with ISKO’s product development manager Baris Ozden on the company’s extensive research practices, upcoming denim trends and the latest material innovations on WWD.com. #iskodenim