Sil Bruinsma for MAC was inspired by Marie Antoinette for the theatrical look backstage at Thom Browne. The look, which also alluded to the Queen of Hearts, featured alabaster faces, created by mixing white Face and Body Foundation and Studio Fix Fluid to “white out the skin” with Porcelain Set Powder and Studio Fix Pastel in Shivering White, which were pressed into the skin to mattify it. Apples of the cheeks featured the bright crimson matte Powder Blush in Frankly Scarlet, which was applied in circular strokes. Lips were given a “centered petal shape,” created with MAC Lipstick in Ruby Woo, which was brushed onto the lips with the tapered-for-precision 316 Lip Brush. Pigment in Basic Red was dusted over the lips to keep the shade intense.
Finally, for a touch of illumination, Bruinsma used Prep + Prime Highlighter in Radiant Rose on the eyelid.
Hair had an equally French, fairy-tale flair. Oversize bouffants, styled by Jimmy Paul for Bumble and bumble, were meant to resemble “a bird’s nest.” To that end, updos were decorated with embellishments of flora and fauna, from whimsical rose details to brambly wooden crowns. To create the style, Paul first brushed hair straight, layering on Thickening Hairspray, Hair Powder and Does It All Styling Spray to infuse it with texture.
He then “rough blow-dried” and teased hair in sections to continue building volume. Next, Paul created a double French twist at the bottom section of hair by taking in the sides and leaving the top section free, which was made as “big and as solid as possible.” To “secure the shape,” Paul used a large mesh hair donut.
Nails, which resembled sharpened crimson talons, were created by Julie Kandalec for Maybelline Color Show. Kandalec used bright true-red shade, Keep Up the Flame, and affixed pointed tips to complete the “wicked fairy tale” beauty look.