Backstage at Marc Jacobs on Monday, François Nars, creator of Nars Cosmetics, described the makeup look he did as “very simple” and “sexy, cool — like when Kate Moss goes out and wears the same makeup the next day. It’s a worn-out look, not overdone, but beautiful on the runway.”
The lips were given a pale, coral-orange color, inspired by a visit Jacobs made to Bloomingdale’s, where he found a coral shade from the Nars collection that he liked. “The lips will look dry with a stain of that [coral-orange] color,” Nars said of the final matte lip look.
On the eyes were two shades, a gray lavender hue and a pale, faded baby blue, which were applied with the fingers to give the worn look. Black liner also was applied to the eyes, along with “tons and tons” of mascara for a sticky, clumpy finish, Nars said, calling it a “focal point” of the overall look.
“All the colors of the show are neutral, beige and brown, so the makeup is the only focal point of color,” Nars said of Jacobs’ fashion collection. “Marc had a specific idea of how he wanted the girls to look — really cool.”
The face was kept “very natural,” Nars said, with liquid foundation, powder and a little blush for a shine-free finish. “The skin tone remains the same as the girls’ natural tone.” Redken creative consultant Guido Palau, who styled the hair at Jacobs’ show, did a dry, textured down do that could be tucked into the big collars on some of the clothes found in Jacobs’ collection.
“It’s a very easy look, not grungy, but sophisticated,” Palau said.
To achieve the style, models’ hair was first trimmed either the day before or the day of the show to a length that was below the collarbone but above the bustline. Then, layers were cut into the hair onto which Palau spritzed Redken’s Fabricate, a heat-activated texturizing product. “It’s a French, Seventies-movie feel,” Palau said of the inspiration. “There’s an ease to the sophistication — it’s not an unkempt look.”