“I am not a perfumer, I am just running a perfumery house,” said Armand de Villoutreys, who is corporate vice president of perfumery at Firmenich and, as of July 1, will move up to president of perfumery worldwide. He was speaking at the recent WWD Beauty CEO Summit.
Nevertheless, in his present position, de Villoutreys led the international teams that created the fragrances Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana, Daisy by Marc Jacobs and Viva la Juicy by Juicy Couture.
De Villoutreys summed up his view of the fragrance business on the idea of competition in the marketplace. “Today, it’s not about competing,” he said. “It is about sharing information and ideas for the good of the fragrance category. It is about challenging ourselves to bring the fragrance consumer back from the brink of disengagement. Today is about growing the size of the pie.”
The prestige fragrance category, according to de Villoutreys, has lost $500 million in sales since 2000, with unit sales having dropped from 70 million to 42 million, while retail prices have increased by 40 percent. The result? When considering that consumers haven’t been trading down to other distribution channels, he said, the whole category has lost consumers.
Citing the almost two million consumers who have left the fragrance category last year, he said: “This is a clear call to action.”
In response, Firmenich teamed with The NPD Group to survey 1,500 lapsed and non-heavy users of fragrance in the U.S. The firms found that 32 percent of the 18- to 64-year-old population are heavy users and 45 percent are non-heavy users. Two percent are lapsed, one-year users; 3 percent are lapsed, two-year users, and 8 percent are lapsed, five-year users. Those who never used fragrance represent 9 percent “and are probably lost forever,” said de Villoutreys.
“Forty-five percent of the market is at risk,” he said. “We must focus on the non-heavy users,” he added, contending there’s $1 billion to be gained on top of the now $2.5 billion U.S. fragrance market.
But, he added — of social pressures — “changes toward…self-consciousness have grown in importance in the U.S. Among women, 44 percent of the lapsed users and 25 percent of the non-heavy users agree with the statement that wearing perfume is not respectful to others. It can offend them. Forty-six percent of lapsed users agree that wearing perfume is becoming inappropriate at work.
“We must reconnect with the true essence of fragrance — put the pleasure and the emotion back in the bottle,” said de Villoutreys.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty