David Yurman is building a fragrance business like stringing together combinations of different colored gems.
That is some of the thinking behind his latest effort, The Essence Collection, a trio of fragrances meant to evoke the characteristics of pink tourmaline, peridot and citrine.
During a recent presentation, Yurman, chairman of his jewelry and timepiece firm, observed that the colors of gemstones carry “an emotional reference.” He also observed that a brand identity is formed by the fire of the hardness of the stones and the energy and heat of the colors, and the fragrance positioning is an extension of that jewelry branding process. He spoke of the connectivity of color, passion and scent.At one point, Yurman remarked,“it has to make the heart take a little skip.”
The three new fragrances, which will be launched in a first wave in early February at Bloomingdale’s, in Yurman’s stores and on his Web site, were developed by Harry Fremont, the master perfumer of Firmenich who also crafted the formula for Yurman’s original, 2008 signature scent. By correlating different fragrances with various stones, Fremont alluded to Yurman’s design aesthetic of creating jewelry to be worn in combination or standing alone. He also borrowed elements of the original fragrance to create the new ones. “The fragrances have a common thread allowing them to be able to be mixed and matched, like people wearing jewelry,” he said.
The amber-colored Exotic Essence, which is meant to symbolize citrine, is classified as a modern sensual oriental andfeatures notes of creamy vanilla absolute, radiant amber and lucid Australian sandalwood to add mystery. Musk and peach skin were added for a touch of sensuality. A hint of Casablanca lily melded with rose petals forms a heart enhanced by patchouli and exotic woods. Sparkling mandarin was added to give the formula an edge.
The second scent, a peridot-inspired green-colored Fresh Essence, is considered a fruity floral. Its top notes include sparkling apple, cassis, juicy red fruits and fresh greens. Rose, peony and water lily comprise the mid-range. Drydown notes consist of soft musk, cashmere woods and cedarwood.
The third fragrance is called Delicate Essence and is described as a modern floral, inspired by tourmaline. Pink pepper, lotus blossom and sparkling orange are the top notes. Pink peony blossom, wild rose and rose absolute are in the midrange, while sheer amber, blonde woods and skin musk form the drydown.
The fragrances will be retailed for a suggested price of $85 for a 3.4-oz. eau de toilette spray.
Jonathan Zrihen, president and chief executive officer of Clarins Groupe USA, Yurman’s licensee, said the early round of spring launches will be followed in the fall by a second wave, including Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Lord & Taylor, Belk’s, Von Maur and Dillard’s. Overseas distribution will include Holt Renfrew in Canada. In the Middle East, the fragrances are expected to be carried by stores in Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, United Arab Emirates, Qatar and Oman. In France, the collection will be carried by Printemps and by Mercury in Russia.
As with the original fragrance, the distribution will be kept very limited and exclusive with an eye toward nurturing the franchise. None of the executives would discuss numbers, but industry sources speculate that first-year retail volume would amount to $5 million, climbing to $15 million worldwide after three years.
Zrihen added that the original fragrance has done well, placing in the top 10 at launch in most doors of its extremely tight distribution. The scent still ranks in the top 20 in many stores, he added.
Fremont noted that a priority was put on working with high-quality materials in creating scents, an increasing rarity in the market these days. “They never worked with a restricted budget,” Zrihen added, referring to Yurman his wife Sybil, who is president and chief marketing officer.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews