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A Closer Look: Color Cosmetics

High-profile collaborations, new packaging initiatives and sci-fi- worthy pigments are reinvigorating makeup this season.

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Appeared In
Special Issue
Beauty Inc issue 02/08/2008

Thierry Mugler embraces light and shadow in the brand’s first cosmetics line, the Mirror Collection. Inspired by Mugler’s passion for photography, the line focuses on using light and shadows to conceal and sculpt the face. Multiple products in the line use a special blue pigment made of titanium mica and ultramarine to manipulate light and hide imperfections; other innovations include Cils Vinyle Vinyl Gloss for eyelashes, a brush-on mascara that imparts a super shiny finish

This story first appeared in the February 8, 2008 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

Mineral cosmetics continue their mass market march with two companies entering the fray and one old hand upping the ante. Bargain brand Wet ‘n’ Wild introduces its mammoth 96-stockkeeping unit Beauty Benefits line this month. Said to brighten, hydrate and protect skin from aging, the line uses lotus flower extract and marine- and earth-derived minerals. N.Y.C. New York Color’s entry in the category, the Smooth Mineral collection, features loose and pressed foundation powders as well as loose powder blushes and shadows. And Physicians Formula enlarges its Mineral Wear line with Organic Wear, a 42-item line of face products certified organic by European certification agency Ecocert

The season’s new foundations have their roots in hard-hitting skin care lines. Dior’s Capture Totale Foundation capitalizes on the three-year-old skin care franchise. In addition to the anti-inflammatory and collagen stimulating alpha-longoza complex found in the treatment line, the foundation includes film-forming polymers that create an elastic network to help it stay evenly on the skin. Meanwhile Shiseido has added to its The Skincare collection with Tinted Moisture Protection SPF 20, which contains yuzu fruit to moisturize, the antioxidant thiotaurine to fend off free radicals and xylitol to smooth out texture. Elizabeth Arden follows up last year’s Intervene antiaging launch with Intervene Makeup. Using the same proprietary Biodormin complex—made up of dormant tazette narcissus bulbs, the foundation claims to delay the appearance of wrinkles, even skin tone and impart a natural finish. Finally, Estée Lauder brings the firming and lifting benefits of its Resilience Lift Extreme to a concealer. Using technology consisting of a fusion of water-soluble ingredients and 20 percent water, the creamy texture doesn’t pull or tug the delicate eye area. The concealer also features collagen boosters and a vegetable protein to lift and firm sagging skin

Cargo wants to bring makeup into the HD age with the launch this month of the Blu_Ray collection. Created with high-definition filming in mind, the line uses photochromatic pigments that automatically adjust to any light, purportedly ensuring color consistency in every environment. The line, which features a pressed powder, blush, lip gloss quad, mattifier and mascara, uses microfine particles to fill in lines and light diffusers to reflect light and mask imperfections

The humble lip gloss tube gets an update this month as three new double formula glosses show off the latest in packaging innovation. The new tubes featured in Too Faced’s Fuze Slenderize Guilt Free Gloss, Smashbox’s Hybrid 2 in 1 Color & Shine Lip Gloss and Tarte’s Double Dose consist of an outer component containing one shade of the gloss and a separate inner core featuring another. The two combine at the applicator to create one mixed gloss

Fall was all about matte eyes but this season cream shadows are the consistency of choice. Laura Mercier, Jane Iredale, L’Oreal Paris, Sugar and Yves Saint Laurent are all introducing versions of the velvety trend. While the formats might vary, from squeezable tubes to crayon sticks to compact duos, the end results are the same—crease-free, nongreasy, shimmery color that glides on smoothly

Avon’s global creative director Jillian Dempsey will spill her secrets this May with the Jillian Dempsey for Avon Professional Collection, including three easy-to-use eye products to help women achieve a smokey eye. Star items include a double-ended volumizing mascara with a full-size brush on one end and a mini brush on the other to reach hard-to-access areas like the corners of the eyes

In her last collection for Lancôme, Gucci Westman took a psychedelic turn with Luminous Colorless Color Intelligence, or L.U.C.I. The line features two types of products, regular pigmented items and colorless photonic pieces. Inspired by the iridescence of shells and light playing on water, the photonic pigments look white in their packaging, but when applied each pigment acts as a light chamber, catching and refracting light, resulting in a multihued iridescent effect

Street art meets makeup artistry this month with the launch of the MAC Fafi collection. Created in collaboration with Paris-based graffiti artist Fafi, the collection features three distinct characters, dreamt up by the artist and called Fafinettes, along with corresponding color products. In addition to the line of bright, girly, bold colors, MAC will introduce limited edition figurines of the Fafinettes

Makeup Forever brings its professional lashes to the consumer market with Lash Pimpin’. Made from natural hair and nylon, the 55 styles range from the everyday to the fantastical (think sparkles, wild colors and feathers). Many of the styles are named after prominent beauty editors, like Fiorella # 139, named after Nylon’s Fiorella Valdesolo and Felicia #146 after Glamour’s Felicia Milewicz

Rimmel London Underground is launching four new plumping products this month: Lip Bloomer is a stain and plumping duo, Uber Full a balm, Doing It Swell a gloss and Va Va Bloom is a trippy, lava lamp-like roller ball gloss plumper

The mascara category gets a bump in creativity this season with two new twists on lash enhancers. Clarins Double Fix’Mascara is a transparent gel that forms a waterproof seal on lashes and is resistant to heat, sweat, tears and various oils. Meanwhile The Balm’s first mascara is a double-ended, smudge-proof version called Two-Timer consisting of one formula and two brushes. One side features the Marcus Lashalot brush, a twisted, uneven spiral brush that volumizes, the other end contains the Johnny Finetune brush, an injection-molded comb that defines and separates lashes

Makeup artist Bobbi Brown is adding a new lipstick to her growing portfolio with this month’s launch of Creamy Lip Color. Available in 14 shades, the lipstick utilizes shea butter and cupuacu butter to condition lips, leaving them hydrated and healthy as well as beautifully colored.

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