Giorgio Armani is planning to show the prestige market some lip this fall, with a new technological slant.
In September, the brand will roll out its 36-stockkeeping-unit lipstick line, Rouge Ecstasy, which it is calling the first “triple c” lipstick — that is, color, comfort and care — and one that is intended to bridge color and skin-care benefits.
“This new, innovative hybrid product marks the start of a new era in lipstick,” said Véronique Gautier, international general manager for Giorgio Armani Beauty. “It is a solid, melting lip balm with the color intensity of a lipstick, 12-hour hydration and reparative actions. It also has a higher viscosity than a balm would, so the formula doesn’t migrate on the lips.”
The centerpiece of the technology is a proprietary ingredient called the Melting Cream Complex, which is said to deliver skin-care benefits along with high-impact color. “Regular lipsticks are chiefly comprised of liquid oils solidified by waxes, while a low proportion of melting moisturizing pastes ensure comfort,” explained Alexandre Choueiri, general manager of Giorgio Armani Beauty. “Inspired by the formulation of a lip-care product, the oily phase has been decreased and replaced by the highest concentration of moisturizing pastes ever reached in a lipstick, while solid waxes were decreased to preserve the comfort of lightness. The formula also continuously feeds the lips with the Armani regenerative 3R serum complex for moisturization, and the moisturizing paste also contains a water magnet agent that captures external moist and fixes it in the lip cellular tissues.” The 3R serum complex contains linseed, Pro-Xylane and vitamin C.
Another proprietary technology, called Kaleidoscope Pearls, features a mix of translucent and multifaceted pearlizers that are said to diffuse color brightly. Multidimensional refraction allows light on the surface of the lips to change the colors’ appearance, said Linda Cantello, international makeup artist for Giorgio Armani Beauty. “Rouge Ecstasy does not sparkle, but it keeps diffusing a colored light that makes color more vibrant,” she said.
The 36 shades are broken down into three groupings. Incognito is a selection of second-skin beiges and browns; Fatal offers bold reds and purples, and Eccentrico features corals and pinks from the most pastel to the most eye-catching.
“The Armani philosophy is the right color in the right texture,” said Gautier. “Each of the 36 colors can suit any woman in any mood of the day, because they each have a different recipe, playing with different levels of pigment, pearl and brightening fillers. The reds are true reds but not overpowering; the beiges are soft and luminous but never too white, yellow or chalky. The corals are fresh and never look painted on, the bois de rose and brick colors are muted but sophisticated, the darks never look dull.”
The lipsticks each retail for $34, and each color has a name that evokes a particular memory or association for Armani, Gautier added. Inspirations include Italy, Milan and Hollywood stars.
In the U.S., Rouge Ecstasy will be sold in about 180 doors, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Sephora and select Bloomingdale’s and Armani boutiques, noted Choueiri.
While all executives declined comment on sales projections, industry sources estimated that Rouge Ecstasy could do $5 million at retail in the U.S. in its first year on counter. Globally, sources estimate it could do $10 million at retail in its first year.
The brand also plans its first digital campaign for the launch, a beatbox — a music form which involves making rhythmical sounds with the voice in imitation of the rhythms of rap music — with music created for the brand with the help of Finnish beatboxer Felix Zenger. The clip showcases all 36 of the shades in the range and is slated to go live on YouTube in mid-September.
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)