LAS VEGAS — Cosmoprof North America proved to be fertile ground for what could be dubbed “nail wars” as several companies poised themselves to take dead aim at CND’s Shellac this fall, a long-lasting power polish formula which altered the manicure playing field last spring with Shellac UV Color.
Nail innovations, along with natural and organically positioned hair-straightening treatments, emerged as trends from Cosmoprof, the show’s ninth annual event, which was held at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center here from July 31 through August 2. The show attracted more than 760 exhibiting companies, up 12 percent from last year, according to Y Public Relations, and almost 25,000 attendees, which included importers, distributors, manufacturers and salon owners.
New firms to the show included Love & Toast (which also showed at NACDS Marketplace), Milani (which usually appears at NACDS Marketplace but did not this year), Michael O’Rourke’s Rock Your Hair and EVO, a natural hair and skin care line.
Long-lasting manicures took the industry by storm in 2010, with Shellac revving up slumped salon sales more than $30 million in its first year. As such, all eyes will be on those who are expected to be Shellac’s main competitors, such as OPI GelColor, which is set to hit salons in mid-October with 28 of their most popular colors, plus a base and top coat. Packaged in an opaque bottle (the formulas are light sensitive) OPI GelColor formulas require 30 seconds of dry time after each coat; four coats are needed. To help with removal, OPI is coming out with individual soak-off sleeves, and custom-made LED lamps, which are branded, said Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, executive vice president and creative director of OPI Products.
At Orly, John Galea showed off the firm’s Gel FX new gel manicuring system. Galea said Gel FX has several points of difference, including offering 32 shades, a vitamin-infused primer, basecoat, cuticle oil and cleanser, as well as a super thin formula. The items previewed at Cosmoprof Bologna and are now set for salon distribution in the next three weeks.
Nail color got a lot of play at Cosmoprof, with textured nails remaining hot for the balance of the year, sparked by OPI’s Shatter collection. Some notable items are coming from Essie with LuxEffects, which will roll out to salons in November. Formulas are said to offer both texture and shine, as shine tends to be a trade-off for texture. Items will sell for $8 a bottle. AII is also focusing on textured nails with China Glaze planning 3D glitters for 2012, formulas that also provide a hologram effect.
Natural and organic hair defrizzing treatments were also popular. Philip Pelusi’s Tela Beauty Organics’ Phyto-Keratin Smoothing Treatment Blowout, which contains 85 percent USDA certified organic ingredients, was seeking distribution at Cosmoprof. The treatment, which he said lasts between four and six weeks, uses Hydro Charged Pelusi Ceramide Complex, a patent-pending potent strengthening and moisture-binding plant ceramide complex to help repair damaged sites on hair and aims to defrizz hair, not straighten hair. The formula is free of formaldehyde and formaldehyde derivatives and does not require gloves when handling. The Blowout also contains a string of organic ingredients, such as reishi mushrooms, red sage, horsetail, sprouted soy and burdock. Suggested service price is between $90 to $125.
Also on the defrizz front, Joico is launching Smooth Cure The Frizz, a 72-hour, at-home keratin treatment that is a four-step process offering cumulative benefits. Joico is also partnering with styleseat.com, a Web site based in Palo Alto, to serve as an online platform for customers to search for Joico salons, book appointments and post product reviews. “It will be very Joico centric,” said Valerie Robinett, the brand’s new public relations director. Joico has also partnered with colorist Beth Minardi, for a new collaboration, Minardi Luxury Products. Zotos, Joico’s parent, will distribute and eventually manufacture the items. Robinett also said that Joico has named Rita Hazan a salon partner, where their celebrity stylist, George Papanikolas, can work from while on the East Coast. And for the first time, Joico is partnering with parent company Shiseido for a gift set which will offer two pink Shiseido lip glosses, along with a KPak at home conditioner.
Discover Beauty, a Cosmoprof North America initiative that sets up emerging brands with retailers attending the show, returned this year with 17 brands participating. Brands had the chance to meet face-to-face with retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman, C.O. Bigelow, Cosbar, Duane Reade, Henri Bendel, HSN, Nordstrom, Skins 6|2 and Zappos. The Discover Beauty Award, which awards the brand based on creativity, innovation and market readiness, was voted on by buyers and beauty editors and given to Snowberry from New Zealand, a natural antiaging skin care line comprised of peptides, antioxidants, super fruits and herbal oils, including extracts from New Zealand rain forest plants cultivated on Snowberry’s plantation.
Kicking off Cosmoprof was The North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA), a Professional Beauty Association (PBA) event and the most prestigious hairstyling and makeup competition in North America. Celebrating 22 years as the pinnacle award for beauty professionals, winners were recognized at an awards ceremony held at the Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino. NAHA’s top honor, Hairstylist of the Year, was presented to Eli Mancha of Chicago’s Bang Salon and the Lock & Loaded line. More than 3,000 beauty professionals attended the event, including entertainer Holly Madison, who was awarded the 2011 Beautiful Humanitarian Award. NAHA was hosted by the star of Bravo’s “Tabatha’s Salon Takeover,” Tabatha Coffey.
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@badgalriri’s @fentybeauty launch in September was a massive success on social media, powering $72.9 million of earned media value, according to Tribe Dynamics. The brand’s foundation offering sparked conversations about diversity in beauty, launching the growth of emerging influencers and propelling the brand’s support on social media. Today, #fentybeauty won Launch of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📷: Chema Moya/EPE-EFE)
@marianna_hewitt has become one of the most influential content creators in the beauty space, with almost 800,000 Instagram followers and a newly launched skin care line called @SummerFridays. Today, she was awarded Influencer of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📸: @sophiachabbott )
As shopping behaviors evolve, the retail experience must follow. Head over to retail experts @colliersinternational’s Knowledge Leader series to read more about the shift in our shopping era. #colliersretail #lovecolliers
@prada opened a pop-up club, called Prada Double Club, in collaboration with German artist Cartsen Höller at @artbasel Miami. Last night, guests – including @youngparis, @ritaora and even Miuccia Prada herself – gathered in a former ice factory where the pop-up is housed for a performance from @wyclefjean. Go to WWD.com for full coverage on all the exhibits, parties and more at #ArtBaselMiami. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@louboutinworld and @disney are making magic once again, creating a set of shoe designs for the release of “Star Wars: The Last Jedi.” Louboutin designed a pair of shoes for each of the film’s four female leads: Rey (@daisyridrey), Vice Admiral Amilyn Holdo (@lauradern), Captain Phasma (Gwendoline Christie) and Rose Tico (@kellymarietran). The shoes will debut on Saturday at the L.A. premiere of the latest episode. #wwdfashion
Today at the #BeautyIncAwards 2017, WWD will be joined by beauty leaders from around the world as we honor this year's most innovative people, products, brands and places. Follow along here and on Twitter for live coverage from the exclusive event. #wwdsummits (📷: @elizaflorendo)
Exclusive: Beauty superinfluencer @marianna_hewitt is launching her first-ever skin care brand with her business partner @laurengores. Their new line Summer Fridays, which will be sold exclusively at summerfridays.com starting in January, is launching with just one product – a hydrating cream Jet Lag Mask. “We wanted to focus on one product that was amazing,” said Hewitt. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Michelin star-rated chef PJ Calapa marks his first solo endeavor with today’s opening of @scampinyc –– the new Southern Italian restaurant located in Manhattans’ Flatiron District. The upscale yet welcoming environment matches the menu, which includes two types of scampi: traditional Italian langoustines in butter and the Americanized version with shrimp over pasta 🍤 - pictured here. #wwdeye (📷: George Chinsee)