LAS VEGAS — Cosmoprof North America proved to be fertile ground for what could be dubbed “nail wars” as several companies poised themselves to take dead aim at CND’s Shellac this fall, a long-lasting power polish formula which altered the manicure playing field last spring with Shellac UV Color.
Nail innovations, along with natural and organically positioned hair-straightening treatments, emerged as trends from Cosmoprof, the show’s ninth annual event, which was held at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center here from July 31 through August 2. The show attracted more than 760 exhibiting companies, up 12 percent from last year, according to Y Public Relations, and almost 25,000 attendees, which included importers, distributors, manufacturers and salon owners.
New firms to the show included Love & Toast (which also showed at NACDS Marketplace), Milani (which usually appears at NACDS Marketplace but did not this year), Michael O’Rourke’s Rock Your Hair and EVO, a natural hair and skin care line.
Long-lasting manicures took the industry by storm in 2010, with Shellac revving up slumped salon sales more than $30 million in its first year. As such, all eyes will be on those who are expected to be Shellac’s main competitors, such as OPI GelColor, which is set to hit salons in mid-October with 28 of their most popular colors, plus a base and top coat. Packaged in an opaque bottle (the formulas are light sensitive) OPI GelColor formulas require 30 seconds of dry time after each coat; four coats are needed. To help with removal, OPI is coming out with individual soak-off sleeves, and custom-made LED lamps, which are branded, said Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, executive vice president and creative director of OPI Products.
At Orly, John Galea showed off the firm’s Gel FX new gel manicuring system. Galea said Gel FX has several points of difference, including offering 32 shades, a vitamin-infused primer, basecoat, cuticle oil and cleanser, as well as a super thin formula. The items previewed at Cosmoprof Bologna and are now set for salon distribution in the next three weeks.
Nail color got a lot of play at Cosmoprof, with textured nails remaining hot for the balance of the year, sparked by OPI’s Shatter collection. Some notable items are coming from Essie with LuxEffects, which will roll out to salons in November. Formulas are said to offer both texture and shine, as shine tends to be a trade-off for texture. Items will sell for $8 a bottle. AII is also focusing on textured nails with China Glaze planning 3D glitters for 2012, formulas that also provide a hologram effect.
Natural and organic hair defrizzing treatments were also popular. Philip Pelusi’s Tela Beauty Organics’ Phyto-Keratin Smoothing Treatment Blowout, which contains 85 percent USDA certified organic ingredients, was seeking distribution at Cosmoprof. The treatment, which he said lasts between four and six weeks, uses Hydro Charged Pelusi Ceramide Complex, a patent-pending potent strengthening and moisture-binding plant ceramide complex to help repair damaged sites on hair and aims to defrizz hair, not straighten hair. The formula is free of formaldehyde and formaldehyde derivatives and does not require gloves when handling. The Blowout also contains a string of organic ingredients, such as reishi mushrooms, red sage, horsetail, sprouted soy and burdock. Suggested service price is between $90 to $125.
Also on the defrizz front, Joico is launching Smooth Cure The Frizz, a 72-hour, at-home keratin treatment that is a four-step process offering cumulative benefits. Joico is also partnering with styleseat.com, a Web site based in Palo Alto, to serve as an online platform for customers to search for Joico salons, book appointments and post product reviews. “It will be very Joico centric,” said Valerie Robinett, the brand’s new public relations director. Joico has also partnered with colorist Beth Minardi, for a new collaboration, Minardi Luxury Products. Zotos, Joico’s parent, will distribute and eventually manufacture the items. Robinett also said that Joico has named Rita Hazan a salon partner, where their celebrity stylist, George Papanikolas, can work from while on the East Coast. And for the first time, Joico is partnering with parent company Shiseido for a gift set which will offer two pink Shiseido lip glosses, along with a KPak at home conditioner.
Discover Beauty, a Cosmoprof North America initiative that sets up emerging brands with retailers attending the show, returned this year with 17 brands participating. Brands had the chance to meet face-to-face with retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman, C.O. Bigelow, Cosbar, Duane Reade, Henri Bendel, HSN, Nordstrom, Skins 6|2 and Zappos. The Discover Beauty Award, which awards the brand based on creativity, innovation and market readiness, was voted on by buyers and beauty editors and given to Snowberry from New Zealand, a natural antiaging skin care line comprised of peptides, antioxidants, super fruits and herbal oils, including extracts from New Zealand rain forest plants cultivated on Snowberry’s plantation.
Kicking off Cosmoprof was The North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA), a Professional Beauty Association (PBA) event and the most prestigious hairstyling and makeup competition in North America. Celebrating 22 years as the pinnacle award for beauty professionals, winners were recognized at an awards ceremony held at the Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino. NAHA’s top honor, Hairstylist of the Year, was presented to Eli Mancha of Chicago’s Bang Salon and the Lock & Loaded line. More than 3,000 beauty professionals attended the event, including entertainer Holly Madison, who was awarded the 2011 Beautiful Humanitarian Award. NAHA was hosted by the star of Bravo’s “Tabatha’s Salon Takeover,” Tabatha Coffey.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews