Guerlain is aiming to boost its U.S. color cosmetics business with Le 2 de Guerlain, a $35 mascara it will launch here in March and globally in April. The high-tech formula incorporates a medical polymer and custom-designed brushes. In the U.S., it will be available in about 300 specialty store doors and could do $3 million in sales in its first year on counter.
Jean Paul Gaultier, who four years ago introduced a generation of guys to makeup with his Le Male color line for men, is now taking a stab at skin care.
The French designer will introduce in spring a collection of color cosmetics and skin care products for men called Monsieur. The line will replace Gaultier's makeup collection, called Le Male Tout Beau Tout Propre, a 2003 entry that's being discontinued.
Monsieur, which is billed as a stand-alone line, consists of a fragranced body spray, $46 for 100 ml.; nine color cosmetics items, priced from $14 to $40, and seven shaving and skin care products, priced between $18 and $34.
"We learned a lot from [Tout Beau Tout Propre] and I think [Monsieur] is stronger but we've managed to keep the fun," said Louis Desazars, president of the U.S. subsidiary of Gaultier's licensee, Beauté Prestige International, during an interview in New York last week. "It's much more approachable and has wider appeal," added Desazars, who, as reported, has been named chief executive officer of Nars Cosmetics Inc.
The makeup component of Monsieur comprises a powder bronzer, $40 for 8 grams; fluid bronzer, $30 for 50 ml.; eyeliner pencil, $14 for 1.2 grams, and brow definer pencils in light and medium shades, each $14 for 1.2 grams. There is also a transparent gel brow groomer, $18 for 7 ml.; self-tanning gel, $28 for 50 ml., and a mattifying gel called Shine Stopper, $25 for 15 ml. Rounding out the makeup range are light, medium and tawny shades of a 15-ml. concealer ($20), and transparent, medium and tawny shades of lip balm ($18 for 3.5 grams).
"Monsieur is totally apart [from Gaultier's fragrance business] and a bit different from the initial strategy," Desazars noted. "Tout Beau Tout Propre was launched within the Le Male fragrance business. Putting Tout Beau Tout Propre [under] Le Male was good for Le Male but not for Tout Beau Tout Propre. It gave the impression that it was scented with Le Male."
During the time Tout Beau Tout Propre was on the market, the line experienced some retrenching and new products were added.
"With Tout Beau Tout Propre, we learned there is definitely a real interest and a customer for this type of product," said Desazars, who acknowledged fine-tuning of the assortment. "We've learned that products need to stay very masculine [but] we had some products that were too feminine in the first [stages of Tout Beau Tout Propre]."
Helping to spur Gaultier skin care products were "Men [who] were asking for a complete approach from Jean Paul Gaultier," said Desazars.
The shaving and skin care component of Monsieur features a face wash, $20 for 125 ml.; face scrub, $20 for 125 ml.; shaving cream, $18 for 125 ml., and aftershave gel, $25 for 50 ml. There is also moisturizing face balm, $32 for 50 ml.; Energizing Face Care, $34 for 50 ml., and Energizing Eye Care, $30 for 15 ml.
Takasago perfumer Francis Kurkdjian collaborated with Gaultier to blend the body spray, a mix of citrus and woody essential oils. During development of Monsieur's packaging, Gaultier directed the creative efforts of design agency Interbrand Paris Venise. Desazars pointed to a tile design element on Monsieur's packaging meant to evoke the Paris metro.
Monsieur is expected to be on counter worldwide on April 1. In the U.S., initial plans call for the line to reach 50 specialty store doors.
"The idea is staying focused for at least a year," said Desazars, discussing potentially expanding distribution of Monsieur in the future. "In men's grooming, you need to be narrow and deep and give it good support. Men need to be educated and need service, so if you want to make it profitable, you have to be limited in terms of distribution."
In the U.S., Gaultier's fragrances are carried in about 1,000 doors, including Macy's, Bloomingdale's, Dillard's and Sephora.
Industry sources estimate the 22-stockkeeping unit Monsieur line could garner sales volume of $500,000 to $750,000 in its first year on counter. That number could rise to $1 million in the second year.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)