Guerlain is aiming to boost its U.S. color cosmetics business with Le 2 de Guerlain, a $35 mascara it will launch here in March and globally in April. The high-tech formula incorporates a medical polymer and custom-designed brushes. In the U.S., it will be available in about 300 specialty store doors and could do $3 million in sales in its first year on counter.
Jean Paul Gaultier, who four years ago introduced a generation of guys to makeup with his Le Male color line for men, is now taking a stab at skin care.
The French designer will introduce in spring a collection of color cosmetics and skin care products for men called Monsieur. The line will replace Gaultier's makeup collection, called Le Male Tout Beau Tout Propre, a 2003 entry that's being discontinued.
Monsieur, which is billed as a stand-alone line, consists of a fragranced body spray, $46 for 100 ml.; nine color cosmetics items, priced from $14 to $40, and seven shaving and skin care products, priced between $18 and $34.
"We learned a lot from [Tout Beau Tout Propre] and I think [Monsieur] is stronger but we've managed to keep the fun," said Louis Desazars, president of the U.S. subsidiary of Gaultier's licensee, Beauté Prestige International, during an interview in New York last week. "It's much more approachable and has wider appeal," added Desazars, who, as reported, has been named chief executive officer of Nars Cosmetics Inc.
The makeup component of Monsieur comprises a powder bronzer, $40 for 8 grams; fluid bronzer, $30 for 50 ml.; eyeliner pencil, $14 for 1.2 grams, and brow definer pencils in light and medium shades, each $14 for 1.2 grams. There is also a transparent gel brow groomer, $18 for 7 ml.; self-tanning gel, $28 for 50 ml., and a mattifying gel called Shine Stopper, $25 for 15 ml. Rounding out the makeup range are light, medium and tawny shades of a 15-ml. concealer ($20), and transparent, medium and tawny shades of lip balm ($18 for 3.5 grams).
"Monsieur is totally apart [from Gaultier's fragrance business] and a bit different from the initial strategy," Desazars noted. "Tout Beau Tout Propre was launched within the Le Male fragrance business. Putting Tout Beau Tout Propre [under] Le Male was good for Le Male but not for Tout Beau Tout Propre. It gave the impression that it was scented with Le Male."
During the time Tout Beau Tout Propre was on the market, the line experienced some retrenching and new products were added.
"With Tout Beau Tout Propre, we learned there is definitely a real interest and a customer for this type of product," said Desazars, who acknowledged fine-tuning of the assortment. "We've learned that products need to stay very masculine [but] we had some products that were too feminine in the first [stages of Tout Beau Tout Propre]."
Helping to spur Gaultier skin care products were "Men [who] were asking for a complete approach from Jean Paul Gaultier," said Desazars.
The shaving and skin care component of Monsieur features a face wash, $20 for 125 ml.; face scrub, $20 for 125 ml.; shaving cream, $18 for 125 ml., and aftershave gel, $25 for 50 ml. There is also moisturizing face balm, $32 for 50 ml.; Energizing Face Care, $34 for 50 ml., and Energizing Eye Care, $30 for 15 ml.
Takasago perfumer Francis Kurkdjian collaborated with Gaultier to blend the body spray, a mix of citrus and woody essential oils. During development of Monsieur's packaging, Gaultier directed the creative efforts of design agency Interbrand Paris Venise. Desazars pointed to a tile design element on Monsieur's packaging meant to evoke the Paris metro.
Monsieur is expected to be on counter worldwide on April 1. In the U.S., initial plans call for the line to reach 50 specialty store doors.
"The idea is staying focused for at least a year," said Desazars, discussing potentially expanding distribution of Monsieur in the future. "In men's grooming, you need to be narrow and deep and give it good support. Men need to be educated and need service, so if you want to make it profitable, you have to be limited in terms of distribution."
In the U.S., Gaultier's fragrances are carried in about 1,000 doors, including Macy's, Bloomingdale's, Dillard's and Sephora.
Industry sources estimate the 22-stockkeeping unit Monsieur line could garner sales volume of $500,000 to $750,000 in its first year on counter. That number could rise to $1 million in the second year.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty