MONTE CARLO, Monaco — A heady dose of glamour was the headlining trend at Luxe Pack in the face of a global economic crisis.
The packaging trade show, which ran from Oct. 28 to 31, saw a spike in attendance to 6,478 visitors, a 5.8 percent increase over 2007.
“The mood is cautiously positive,” said Christophe Czajka Luxe Pack president, “we are determined to deliver on the quality of the business and prove the show can only be stronger in a moment of crisis.”
To that end organizers jam-packed the fair’s four-day run with 30 conferences and launched a new workshop on packaging design trends.
Among the highlights were Ora Ito, a young French designer, Jonathan Ford, cofounder and designer of Pearl Fisher and Marc Rosen, who led a panel discussion called “Re-defining the Glamour Aesthetic” on Oct. 29.
Rosen said the idea for his panel grew out of an earlier speech, in which he called upon the cosmetics industry to reembrace its past love of glamour. “Our industry used to personify glamour,” he said. “I think we lost it. We need to redefine it and bring it back. If that can be accomplished,” he added, “we can bring people back to the counter.”
That led Rosen to think about redefining the meaning of glamour to attract a younger generation of consumers. “It is now about keeping up with technology,” he said. “It’s also a sense of supermodernity in use of materials, whether it’s steel or bling or a sense of retro,” he said. That is where the issue spills over into packaging design. Pointing to skin care, Rosen said packaging tended to be generic in the Nineties. But with the advent of high-priced brands in this decade, it became necessary to invest more in the design. “If it costs $300,” he said, “it should look glamorous.”
As an example, Rosen described a resin-based glass polymer, marketed by Eastman Chemical Co., that produces thick-walled crystal clear containers. The interior can be shaped to create a visual effect. Courtland Jenkins, global market development manager for food, beverage and consumer packaging of Eastman Chemical said, “That particular polymer works well for skin care because the design is very engaging to the customer, and from a performance standpoint it is very good because it is tough, and has a good chemical resistance with the product it holds.”
The other speakers on the panel were Felix Mayr-Harting of Givaudan, Sue Phillips of Scenterprise and Mary Manning of Manning Associates.
Other firms upped the glamour factor on their offer. Pfeiffer Beauty unveiled a glossy new brand image it dubbed “the touch of beauty” with Wenge wood containers topped with soft touch dispensers, positioned to capture the luxury beauty market. “We want to be more present in the beauty industry,” said Yannick Brunat, vice president marketing and sales beauty division. The German firm showed “Alpha” a new cartridge that prevents product from touching any metal parts of the packaging. “It ensures the bulk remains completely sterilized and no chemical reactions can occur,” explained Brunat. Pfeiffer has combined Alpha with a new dispenser system “Irresistible,” which was developed originally for the pharmaceutical industry. It contains a fine Gore-Tex filter to block bacteria and prevent the product from oxidation and contamination.
Jean-Paul Imbert, in his new role of president of Cosfibel Inc. revealed some of the company’s savvy new promotional and cosmetic packaging innovations at the show. Cosfibel’s promotional “bomb box” comes with its own internal lighting and sound system and is constructed with a raised platform so the product protrudes out.
“It stands out, the customer sees it and says ‘oh boy look at that’ and the retailer likes it too because though the box is designed so the product juts out the front, the back of it is grooved so the boxes can stack neatly,” said Imbert. Cosfibel also had a new lipstick case fitted with magnets so it closes automatically once the two ends meet. Dieter Bakic trussed up his versatile mix-and-match plastic packaging lines for skin and hair care with eye-catching decoration techniques like a three-dimensional lace wraps and relief printing. Bakic also is marketing practical design additions of push button lid openings and an ultracompact mascara tube called “Telescope Mascara” that works like a telescope, untwisting to extend to 10 centimeters.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)