Marc Jacobs is venturing into beauty territory where few designers have prospered and he’s doing it with his trademark wit and sharply defined aesthetic.
Instead of playing it safe, Jacobs has teamed up with Sephora Originals to launch an ambitious color cosmetics collection called Marc Jacobs Beauty. It is a strong statement and a brave move in a makeup category that has traditionally been hazardous for major designers, who have launched color collections and failed.
But from all indications, Jacobs appears to be poised to deliver a winner, which could garner North American retail sales of about $15 million from August through December 2013, according to estimates by industry sources. The number for the second full year in North America is estimated at $20 million at retail. Sephora declined to comment.
Jacobs has designed everything from couture to Coke cans, infusing each with a sense of elegance and whimsy. He brings the same design sensibility to his new beauty collection, which will debut on Aug. 9 exclusively at Sephora, sephora.com and select Marc Jacobs stores. The introduction of Jacobs’ collection will mark the first time Sephora has launched a brand simultaneously in all freestanding Sephora stores across the U.S. and Canada. It is also the brand’s largest proprietary brand launch in terms of units — and its first global launch, with plans to stretch across Europe and ultimately reach China.
“I’m surprised by how delighted I am with the results,” the designer said during an extensive interview with WWD earlier this month. “Now I want to see what the customer thinks. That’s the ultimate.”
Jacobs originally let the cosmetics collection news leak in an April 2012 interview with WWD, before he’d even had his first creative meeting with the retailer — and he makes no apologies for it. “Hey, ya know, I say what I say and I just talk freely — I’m not a good puppet,” he said.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast