Pat McGrath's Pat McGrath Labs will launch Metalmorphosis 005 Nov. 15.


NEW YORK — Pat McGrath coined a new term for any metallic eye pigment she deems subpar.

“What is the goldest of all gold that I can ever have in my kit? When I put a metallic [eye shadow] on I’m not looking for a local metallic…a local shadow claiming to be a metallic,” the makeup artist said Monday evening during a preview of Pat McGrath Labs’ fifth product, Metalmorphosis 005, at the Dream Hotel in Chelsea here. “That’s a new word for basic. Basic is ‘local.'”

McGrath is very serious about eye shadow pigment, so much so that Metalmorphosis is an extension of her first product, the Gold 001 pigment that launched a year ago. It also marks the first time she has brought back one of her products after it has sold out.

This time around, though, Gold 001 is being joined by her “sisters” silver, bronze and copper, McGrath said. Every kit comes with a cream shadow, a pigment in the same shade, a Mehron mixing liquid and a black, dual-ended liquid eyeliner (to achieve a bold or fine stroke). Each of the four Metalmorphosis 005 sets retails for $60, an Everything Kit containing all four colorways for $165, and a single Dual-Ended Marker for $24. The range will hit the makeup artist’s web site, Patmcgrath.com, on Nov. 15 and select Sephora doors and sephora.com on Nov. 22.

Using her hand to test out each shade, she demonstrated that the liquid can be used to help the pigment go from dry to wet for a more saturated finish on the eye. She also suggested layering a light wash of cream shadow on the lid and then placing pigment on top, as well as applying pigment in a dramatic, winged cat-eye for a more “couture” look. For less of a statement, the product works well when brushed along the lash line as a liner or even just placed on the inner corners for a pop of metallic. It can also be used as lip, hair or body color, and mixing and matching colors is recommended.

“It’s every eye I’ve ever done since I’ve started my career,” McGrath mused of the long-lasting liner and metal pigments, adding that, “[You put it on] and then you can’t get it off, I’m sorry. You can wear it for a few nights.”

Metalmorphosis 005, billed as “metallurgic masterpieces,” follows the same code as her four previous launches: the makeup appeared on the runways during the most recent fashion week (in this case, the spring runways of Maison Margiela and Versace). And like each product that’s come before it, the four-piece eye set is available in limited release.

McGrath, who is also the global creative design director at Procter & Gamble, is mum on numbers, but did say that production is considerably higher than when her first Gold 001 pigment came out last September. She confirmed that she started with a “very small amount” and upped production once Pat McGrath Labs partnered with Sephora on the distribution for the Skin Fetish 003 highlighting kits and Lust 004 glitter lip sets that were released on April 26 and Aug. 30, respectively.

“There are no rules with labs,” she said when asked if she continued to keep up the cadence of doing five product launches a year.

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