By  on March 19, 2010

Makeup artist Tom Pecheux aims to put a new shine on the Estée Lauder brand with an ambitious, new Pure Color cosmetics collection.

Pecheux, creative makeup director for the Estée Lauder brand, said when he accepted the job at Lauder in November he wanted to “bring a strong fashion edge to the brand. Makeup is such a fashion accessory — I’d like to highlight that part of the brand, and also bring a playful touch to the franchise.”

With Pure Color Gloss and Pure Color Eyeshadow — not to mention a limited edition color collection called Blue Dahlia — Pecheux, who has also served in similar roles for Shiseido and L’Oréal’s Gemey — believes he has taken the first steps in accomplishing those goals.

Jane Hertzmark Hudis, who took over as global brand president of the Estée Lauder brand in July 2009, agrees. “Having Tom Pecheux in this role is bringing us a new fashion edge and sense of style,” said Hudis. “He’s done an amazing job redefining modern color for Estée Lauder.”

“These are my babies,” said the charismatic makeup artist during an interview at Jean-Georges restaurant, sweeping an arm across a display of more than 100 products. “There are so many textures and colors here — you can do anything from a natural look to a much more dramatic look.”

Perhaps the most favored child is Pure Color Eyeshadow, which will bow in August. “I’ve always thought that eye shadow brings women self-confidence and power,” he said. The collection, which comprises 48 shades in four finishes, incorporates long-lasting pigments, fade-resistant formulas and buildable finishes, noted Pecheux.

The technology driving the formula is the proprietary True Vision technology, which is intended to provide saturated, rich application of color. Matte shades feature jet-milled coated pigments for a suedelike finish. Satin shades are made with a low luster texture with a hint of luminosity. Luminous shades are concocted with prismatic light-reflecting pearls, and metallic shades include flattened and round pearls for dramatic sparkle.

Each shade will retail for $20.

The eye shadows will also show the brand’s new packaging for Pure Color — a sleek gold compact with oversize Estée Lauder initials, and a mirror.

Before the eye shadows bow, another Pecheux project — Pure Color Gloss in three finishes — will hit counters in June.

Like the eye shadows, Lauder’s proprietary True Vision technology is also powering the lip gloss. “The pigments are wrapped in a crystal-like coating, which results in intense, shiny color,” said Elana Drell Szyfer, senior vice president of global marketing for Estée Lauder. They also contain vitamins C and E and humectants that are intended to improve lip condition with regular wear. The lineup includes 34 shades, each $20. In the permanent line, seven are shine, concocted with pigment polymers for a high-shine finish; 19 are shimmer, made with finely cut pearls for a mirrored shine, and four are sparkle, with metallic sparkle for the most dramatic finish. An additional four shades are limited edition and fall in the shine family. Each finish includes at least one shade in the nude-brown, pink-berry, coral-red and mauve-plum color families.

Blue Dahlia, Pecheux’s limited edition fall color story for Pure Color, made its debut backstage at Derek Lam’s fall ready-to-wear show in February; it will hit department store counters in July.

“Blue is iconic for fall and this collection offers many choices for women, because the colors are buildable and versatile,” Pecheux said of the lineup. Two distinct looks are offered: the namesake of the collection, Blue Dahlia, and Surreal Violet. Shades offered range from electric blue eye shadow to iridescent lilac nail polish.

The new products will be available in the brand’s full distribution, currently about 2,200 department and specialty store doors in the U.S.

While executives declined to discuss sales projections or advertising and promotional spending, industry sources estimated that the collective Pure Color launches — glosses, eye shadows and the limited edition color collection — could do upward of $85 million at retail globally in their first year on counter, with about $23 million of that figure expected to be done in North America. Industry sources also estimated that Lauder would spend about $20 million globally on advertising and promotion, with about $5 million of that figure expected to be spent in North America.

National print advertising, shot by Craig McDean, is slated to begin breaking in June beauty and lifestyle magazines in the U.S., with a digital advertising campaign also scheduled to start in June.

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