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Shiseido will give the beauty world some lip this winter — with an able assist from Dick Page.
This story first appeared in the November 7, 2008 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
In his inaugural global line as Shiseido’s makeup artistic director, Page concocted a lineup of lipsticks called Perfect Rouge and a coordinating lineup of Smoothing Lip Pencils.
“I want people to get back into the simplicity of lipstick and play,” said Page, who signed on for his current role in March 2007. He first began working with Shiseido in Japan in 1997, creating and later redesigning the company’s Inoui color cosmetics line. “Perfect Rouge’s formulation includes both skin care technology, for maximum hydration, and very color-true pigments — so what you see is what you get,” he said.
Specifically, the formulation includes Shiseido’s proprietary Super Hydro-Wrap Vitalizing DE, which contains an oil that blends well with water and which is said to seal moisture into the lips. Dual-Optimizing Powder is designed to detect available light levels and adjust color accordingly, while translucent red pigment is said to reflect all light as red, adding depth to all of the lipstick colors. Also included: Shiseido’s new Satin Smooth Pearl, an ingredient said to contain uniform particle sizes — and thus, smoothness and luster to the lips.
The collection includes 20 lipstick shades, each priced $25, and seven lip pencils, each $20. The lipsticks range in color from opaque shocking pink — “if you’re going to do that color, DO that color, and not by half-measures,” said Page — to neutral beige to vivid cherry red. Lip pencils range from deep brown to pinky-beige. “There is a balance of wardrobe and ‘fun’ colors,” said Page.
All will be on counter in February.
“This will be our largest lip launch ever,” said Heidi Manheimer, chief executive officer of Shiseido Cosmetics America, adding that Shiseido’s overall U.S. business is up 3 percent to date. “After years of gloss, lipstick is making a comeback — and we are expecting great numbers for this launch.”
While Manheimer declined to discuss projected sales, industry sources estimated that Perfect Rouge and the lip pencils will do close to $6 million at retail in the U.S. in their first year on counter. They will be available in about 1,000 department and specialty store doors in the U.S., which include Macy’s, Sephora, Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and Dillard’s.
According to The NPD Group, the total lip category accounts for 18 percent of the total makeup category, with 45 percent of that figure done in lipstick. According to Tomoko Yamagishi-Dressler, vice president of marketing for Shiseido Prestige Brands, Shiseido’s lip category accounts for 14 percent of its total color business in the U.S., and color cosmetics account for 27 percent of Shiseido’s total business in the U.S.
“This lineup presents a great opportunity for us to grow that share, and quickly,” said Yamagishi-Dressler. “It is already a strong category for us, but it will get stronger with this offering.”
National advertising, featuring Australian model Christina Carey and shot by Nick Knight, breaks in March fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines. For the first time, Shiseido will sample its lip liners, with about 100,000 pieces slated for distribution. Mini lipsticks and blister cards with four shades will also be distributed. While executives declined to comment, industry sources estimated that Shiseido would spend about $2 million on advertising and promotion in the U.S. in the collection’s first year.