NEW DELHI — Shiseido has raised its flag in India.
The Tokyo-based company has orchestrated its first launch, Za cosmetics, in the country, under the auspices of Shiseido India Private Ltd., the subsidiary it established here in July 2013.
The 11-piece line started rolling out in April in Mumbai, New Delhi and Bangalore. Currently in about 100 doors, it’s on track to reach its target of 250 doors by yearend; distribution includes department stores like Shoppers Stop and Central, as well as in beauty specialty stores such as New U and smaller, more traditional beauty formats.
“India is a strategic market for the company. Having been present since 2001, Shiseido aims to further strengthen its foothold with the entry of Za,” said Yu Okazawa, corporate executive officer and director of the board at Shiseido Co. Ltd.
“Za is one of the key drivers of our growth in the region,” agreed Tsutomu Benjamin Suzuki, managing director of Shiseido India. Za’s lower prices and target age positioning have made it more viable to introduce than Shiseido’s more premium ranges. The Shiseido brand, for instance, has been in India since 2001 and is in 30 doors, mostly department stores. It is marketed through Baccarose, one of India’s largest prestige beauty distributors.
Suzuki acknowledged Baccarose’s work to increase Shiseido’s brand awareness and sales growth. “Over the years, they [Baccarose] have grown not only our brand’s presence and awareness, but also that of the entire luxury beauty category. Our relationship is very strong and we intend to continue to nurture it even going forward,” he said, when asked whether the subsidiary would take over the prestige brand.
When it came to the launch of Za, Shiseido did its homework, researching the market for three years before moving forward. Its primary competitors include L’Oréal, Garnier, Pond’s, Nivea, Neutrogena and Lakmé. “Although Za has an extensive catalogue of makeup and skin care, we have selected our skin-care lineup that features whitening, age-prevention and the two-in-one foundation for our India entry,” said Salman Bukhari, marketing director, Shiseido India Pvt. Ltd. “We have priced the brand in line with the prevailing market standards.” Prices range from 349 rupees ($5.73 at current exchange) to 1,399 rupees ($23).
Bukhari said makeup would be launched later, after the company has a grasp on the treatment market. Za plans to have a widespread geographical footprint in India, and is looking at a variety of formats, including department stores and multibrand beauty outlets in modern trade and traditional trade. “Mumbai and Delhi are certainly the cities that we are growing this year, and Bangalore. For a brand that speaks the language of metropolitan women, we want to ensure that Za is present in these key metro [areas],” he said.
The target customer base is 20- to 35-year-olds, young women who are looking for quick solutions. The whitening range, in particular, plays into a key segment in India — fairness products have led the market for years, with Hindustan Unilever’s Fair & Lovely holding more than 40 percent market share.
The Indian beauty market — estimated at approximately $1 billion in sales — has been growing at 15 to 20 percent a year. The mass segment is expected to grow at more than 20 percent for the next five years, according to industry analysts. The country’s middle-class population has grown to 400 million people, with ballooning disposable income and an aspiration for grooming as more women enter the workforce.
Although many global beauty brands, including Estée Lauder and The Body Shop, have entered India over the last decade, Bukhari believes the timing is right for Za. “We are a bit late,” he admits, but added that it was better in some ways as “customers are already more educated.”
Unlike in many other Asian countries, many prominent Japanese beauty brands are still unavailable in India. Historically, India has been considered hard to scale because of its vast geography and bureaucracies. India, long known as a fragrance market, has begun to change dramatically over the last few years. Skin care and makeup are fast-growing segments and consumers are showing themselves more willing to experiment.
“We aim to be a global player, representing Asia with origins in Japan,” Suzuki said. “Such a vision must include one of Asia’s most dynamic economies — India. We have very high expectations for this market, especially as Za is in the masstige category.”
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye