As summer sun approaches, fragrance triplets and new scent partnerships are born, while seasonal flankers get zesty with citrus and spicy with peppercorns.
Globally, the fragrance category grew 9.9 percent last year, with an increase in every market except North America. “This is a saturated market, which isn’t very feasible businesswise,” says Oru Mohiuddin, company analyst for EUROMONITOR, about the United States, which saw a sales decline of 4 percent. “To compensate for market saturation it makes sense to expand towards [markets] with growth opportunity.” Mohiuddin says that emerging markets are driving the marketplace, particularly Latin America, where sales grew 25 percent; Eastern Europe with a 16.7 percent increase and Asia Pacific, which saw growth of 9.4 percent. “There aren’t as many layoffs abroad,” says Mohiuddin, who named Avon, Chanel and Kenzo as last years’ top sellers in emerging markets. Although many Americans are feeling the pinch in their wallets, Mohiuddin says it’s not just lack of money that is keeping fragrances on store shelves. “It’s not just because they don’t have money, it’s because they are not interested,” she says, blaming too many launches and a lack of exclusivity for the lack of interest. “Fragrance was once a prestigious, premium product and it’s lost that. With too many options, people are confused and can just do without it,” she says.
This month, Flora, a younger, flirtier GUCCI fragrance, launches. “Flora is another side of the multifaceted Gucci woman,” Frida Giannini, creative director for Gucci, told WWD earlier this year. “The strategy is to capture younger new customers eager to buy into the brand.” The juice, a blend of rose, osmanthus flower and peony laced with an earthy base of sandalwood and patchouli, was inspired by a Gucci print found on a silk scarf designed for Princess Grace in 1966. “I decided to keep the same floral pattern but [use it in] black and white, more graphic and correct for the project,” said Giannini. The print can be found on the scent’s packaging. Flora, priced at $52 for 1 oz., $65 for 1.7 oz. and $90 for 2.5 oz., is expected to generate $220 million in fi rst-year worldwide sales.
With AVON’s April launch of Spotlight, Courteney Cox can add fragrance spokesperson to her list of accomplishments. “We felt very strongly about introducing Courteney into the Avon family,” says Tracy Roe Haffner, vice president of global fragrance marketing and strategic alliances. “We envisioned a fragrance for 2009 to give Hollywood glamour at an accessible price point.” Cox’s position as an actress, philanthropist, mother and wife lends itself to the scent’s promise of offering women the feeling of being in the spotlight in their own lives. Created by Jean-Marc Chaillan and Loc Dong of INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS & FRAGRANCES, the scent is comprised of frozen bergamot blended with a silver accord, mimosa, white freesia and vanilla musk. Priced at $22.50, industry sources estimate Spotlight could generate between $10 million to $15 million in first-year retail sales. “This fragrance is about contrasts between effervescent citrus and romantic feminine florals,” says Helen Murphy, director of fragrance development group for IFF.
HERMÈS has amped up its fragrance business, with no less than three new launches. February saw the introduction of Kelly Caléche Pure Perfume Rechargeable Jewelled Natural Spray, a blend of jasmine, mimosa, tuberose, iris and leather notes, housed in a small steel padlock. The scent, available at Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue and Hermès boutiques, retails for $90. That same month, the brand rolled out Vanilla Galante. The eighth fragrance in its Hermessence collection, it blends vanilla extract, cognac, spice and smoked wood. In May, a trio of unisex fragrances called Les Colognes Hermès will launch. The brand’s classic Eau d’Orange Verte, initially created in 1979, has been reinterpreted and is being introduced with two new scents, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose and Eau de Gentiane Blanche, conceived by Hermès perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. Prices start at $125.
Who said anything about men being from Mars and women being from Venus? Spring fragrances blur lines between the sexes with gender-neutral offerings. “There is a palette of raw materials and fragrance ingredients that can apply to both men and women,” says Veronique Ferval, creative center manager for IFF. “Orange flower, woody notes, amber and incense, for example, can go in both directions.” TOM FORD’s newest, Italian Cypress, $180, unites mandarin, Calabrian bergamot, galbanum and Moroccan spearmint. “Tom Ford rejects the idea that scents are masculine or feminine, which led him to design fragrances that can be enjoyed by men and women without the stigma attached to the label,” says Diana Waldron, vice president of global marketing for Tom Ford Beauty. SERGE LUTENS’ Nuit de Cellophane blends mandarin orange peel and jasmine and launched in February at Barneys for $120, while KIEHL’s offers the convenience of roller-ball packaging with its highly concentrated Portable Essence Oils, available in Musk 1921, Coriander 1946, Vanilla 1968 and Grapefruit 1976. The fragrances, $25 each, are a nod to Kiehl’s original classic essence oils, which date back to the early 1920’s.
VALENTINO’s first eponymous fragrance is an aldehydic-floral. “This scent communicates the heart of Valentino the fashion house to a broader audience,” said Andrea Petochi, global marketing director for licensee holder, P&G Prestige Products, to WWD earlier this year. The pink-hued juice, with top notes of pear blossom and magnolia and a heart of violet leaves and orange flower, comes in a crystal-cut bottle designed to recall the lines and embroidery techniques of a Valentino gown. Industry sources expect the scent, priced at $80 to $100, to generate over $50 million in first-year retail sales.
The organic trend is making its way into the world of fine fragrances with two new lines. WHOLEARTH will unveil its USDA certified organic fragrances, No. 4, No. 7 and No. 10, on Earth Day, April 22, also company founder, Danny Seo’s birthday. Seo, who is a contributor on The CBS Early Show, also has a green mattress line, Simmons Natural Care by Danny Seo, sold at Crate and Barrel. The traditional Korean ingredient kimchi acts as the preservative in the fragrances, which will retail for $65 each and will be available at wholearthbeauty.com. Meanwhile, U.S. distributor LUSH OASIS will introduce ecocertcertified ACORELLE ORGANIC EAU DE PARFUMS, a collection of scents with aromatherapy benefits. From stimulating the nervous system to soothing a stressed mind, each of the six fragrances, developed by perfumer Philippe Collet from Expressions Parfumées, serves a function. “There are health benefits with the essential oils,” says Marjolaine Hernandez, export zone coordinator for the Americas and Asia. “Each moment there is a perfume to use, depending on how you feel or want to feel.” The fragrances, $75, are launching on lushoasis.com and are expected to generate $400,000 in first-year sales.
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)
Breaking News: @hedislimane joins @celine as its new artistic, creative and image director. One of fashion’s preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Slimane is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week. It marks a major homecoming for Slimane, who cemented his reputation – and influenced men’s tailoring for more than a decade – as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. He went on to reinvent and ignite the house of Yves Saint Laurent, which he rechristened Saint Laurent, between 2012 and 2016 – all the while maintaining a close relationship with the Arnault family, which controls LVMH and Dior. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
“Personally I believe the Eighties have been the richest and more vivacious period for international fashion,” Giorgio Armani said when asked what his favorite decade of fashion is. It was a moment of disruption and experimentation and only thinking back to the first years of that decade is always an emotion for me, for what they have meant to me and my work.” The influence is clear in @giorgioarmani spring 2018 collection, pictured here, which was full of bright colors and unexpected prints. Read more about which decades designers loved most on WWD.com #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
For Lady Gaga’s only Italian show on her “Joanne World Tour,” the singer wore a range of @versace_official outfits. The standout piece: this custom-made bodysuit inspired by the brand’s spring 2018 collection. #wwdfashion (RG: @ladygaga)
@_camillaruth_ is expanding on the wellness-craze concept with @westbourne – a new NYC restaurant that’s both a healthy-minded café as well as a business that gives back to the community. Marcus works with the Robin Hood foundation to give back to The Door, a non-profit providing youth development services, and also hires employees through The Door. Read our full interview with Marcus on giving back through food on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)