As summer sun approaches, fragrance triplets and new scent partnerships are born, while seasonal flankers get zesty with citrus and spicy with peppercorns.
Globally, the fragrance category grew 9.9 percent last year, with an increase in every market except North America. “This is a saturated market, which isn’t very feasible businesswise,” says Oru Mohiuddin, company analyst for EUROMONITOR, about the United States, which saw a sales decline of 4 percent. “To compensate for market saturation it makes sense to expand towards [markets] with growth opportunity.” Mohiuddin says that emerging markets are driving the marketplace, particularly Latin America, where sales grew 25 percent; Eastern Europe with a 16.7 percent increase and Asia Pacific, which saw growth of 9.4 percent. “There aren’t as many layoffs abroad,” says Mohiuddin, who named Avon, Chanel and Kenzo as last years’ top sellers in emerging markets. Although many Americans are feeling the pinch in their wallets, Mohiuddin says it’s not just lack of money that is keeping fragrances on store shelves. “It’s not just because they don’t have money, it’s because they are not interested,” she says, blaming too many launches and a lack of exclusivity for the lack of interest. “Fragrance was once a prestigious, premium product and it’s lost that. With too many options, people are confused and can just do without it,” she says.
This month, Flora, a younger, flirtier GUCCI fragrance, launches. “Flora is another side of the multifaceted Gucci woman,” Frida Giannini, creative director for Gucci, told WWD earlier this year. “The strategy is to capture younger new customers eager to buy into the brand.” The juice, a blend of rose, osmanthus flower and peony laced with an earthy base of sandalwood and patchouli, was inspired by a Gucci print found on a silk scarf designed for Princess Grace in 1966. “I decided to keep the same floral pattern but [use it in] black and white, more graphic and correct for the project,” said Giannini. The print can be found on the scent’s packaging. Flora, priced at $52 for 1 oz., $65 for 1.7 oz. and $90 for 2.5 oz., is expected to generate $220 million in fi rst-year worldwide sales.
With AVON’s April launch of Spotlight, Courteney Cox can add fragrance spokesperson to her list of accomplishments. “We felt very strongly about introducing Courteney into the Avon family,” says Tracy Roe Haffner, vice president of global fragrance marketing and strategic alliances. “We envisioned a fragrance for 2009 to give Hollywood glamour at an accessible price point.” Cox’s position as an actress, philanthropist, mother and wife lends itself to the scent’s promise of offering women the feeling of being in the spotlight in their own lives. Created by Jean-Marc Chaillan and Loc Dong of INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS & FRAGRANCES, the scent is comprised of frozen bergamot blended with a silver accord, mimosa, white freesia and vanilla musk. Priced at $22.50, industry sources estimate Spotlight could generate between $10 million to $15 million in first-year retail sales. “This fragrance is about contrasts between effervescent citrus and romantic feminine florals,” says Helen Murphy, director of fragrance development group for IFF.
HERMÈS has amped up its fragrance business, with no less than three new launches. February saw the introduction of Kelly Caléche Pure Perfume Rechargeable Jewelled Natural Spray, a blend of jasmine, mimosa, tuberose, iris and leather notes, housed in a small steel padlock. The scent, available at Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue and Hermès boutiques, retails for $90. That same month, the brand rolled out Vanilla Galante. The eighth fragrance in its Hermessence collection, it blends vanilla extract, cognac, spice and smoked wood. In May, a trio of unisex fragrances called Les Colognes Hermès will launch. The brand’s classic Eau d’Orange Verte, initially created in 1979, has been reinterpreted and is being introduced with two new scents, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose and Eau de Gentiane Blanche, conceived by Hermès perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. Prices start at $125.
Who said anything about men being from Mars and women being from Venus? Spring fragrances blur lines between the sexes with gender-neutral offerings. “There is a palette of raw materials and fragrance ingredients that can apply to both men and women,” says Veronique Ferval, creative center manager for IFF. “Orange flower, woody notes, amber and incense, for example, can go in both directions.” TOM FORD’s newest, Italian Cypress, $180, unites mandarin, Calabrian bergamot, galbanum and Moroccan spearmint. “Tom Ford rejects the idea that scents are masculine or feminine, which led him to design fragrances that can be enjoyed by men and women without the stigma attached to the label,” says Diana Waldron, vice president of global marketing for Tom Ford Beauty. SERGE LUTENS’ Nuit de Cellophane blends mandarin orange peel and jasmine and launched in February at Barneys for $120, while KIEHL’s offers the convenience of roller-ball packaging with its highly concentrated Portable Essence Oils, available in Musk 1921, Coriander 1946, Vanilla 1968 and Grapefruit 1976. The fragrances, $25 each, are a nod to Kiehl’s original classic essence oils, which date back to the early 1920’s.
VALENTINO’s first eponymous fragrance is an aldehydic-floral. “This scent communicates the heart of Valentino the fashion house to a broader audience,” said Andrea Petochi, global marketing director for licensee holder, P&G Prestige Products, to WWD earlier this year. The pink-hued juice, with top notes of pear blossom and magnolia and a heart of violet leaves and orange flower, comes in a crystal-cut bottle designed to recall the lines and embroidery techniques of a Valentino gown. Industry sources expect the scent, priced at $80 to $100, to generate over $50 million in first-year retail sales.
The organic trend is making its way into the world of fine fragrances with two new lines. WHOLEARTH will unveil its USDA certified organic fragrances, No. 4, No. 7 and No. 10, on Earth Day, April 22, also company founder, Danny Seo’s birthday. Seo, who is a contributor on The CBS Early Show, also has a green mattress line, Simmons Natural Care by Danny Seo, sold at Crate and Barrel. The traditional Korean ingredient kimchi acts as the preservative in the fragrances, which will retail for $65 each and will be available at wholearthbeauty.com. Meanwhile, U.S. distributor LUSH OASIS will introduce ecocertcertified ACORELLE ORGANIC EAU DE PARFUMS, a collection of scents with aromatherapy benefits. From stimulating the nervous system to soothing a stressed mind, each of the six fragrances, developed by perfumer Philippe Collet from Expressions Parfumées, serves a function. “There are health benefits with the essential oils,” says Marjolaine Hernandez, export zone coordinator for the Americas and Asia. “Each moment there is a perfume to use, depending on how you feel or want to feel.” The fragrances, $75, are launching on lushoasis.com and are expected to generate $400,000 in first-year sales.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)