MILAN —Accademia del Profumo, the association of cosmetics companies promoting the history of perfume, culture and art, announced the short list for its 29th annual awards, which will be assigned on May 15 in Milan.The categories involved, each divided into male and female, are best scent of the year; best olfactory creation; best Made in Italy fragrance; best packaging and best communication.Introduced last year, the additional nongender awards for best scent of a big company and best scent of artistic perfumery will honor the top creations by companies with an extended business and great distribution and scent-focused firms with a maximum of 300 selling points, respectively.“The seven categories are conceived to award the most innovative fragrances under all the different aspects,” said Accademia del Profumo president Luciano Bertinelli. “The message we want to communicate is that a fragrance is not only a juice in a bottle, but an all-around emotional experience.”Finalists for best female fragrance of the year, which will be chosen by a consumer jury, are Emporio Armani’s Because of You; Chanel’s Gabrielle; Gucci Bloom; Dior’s J’Adore in Joy and Miss Dior Eau de Parfum; Bulgari’s Goldea The Roman Night; Yves Saint Laurent’s Mon Paris; Jean Paul Gaultier’s Scandal; Salvatore Ferragamo’s Signorina in Fiore; Narciso Rodriguez for Her Fleur Musc; Collistar’s La Rosa; Mon Guerlain, and Tiffany & Co.'s Eau de Parfum.The men’s counterpart includes Emporio Armani’s Stronger With You; Dior Homme Sport; Yves Saint Laurent’s La Nuit de L’Homme Eau Electrique and Y; Salvatore Ferragamo’s Uomo Casual Life; Trussardi Riflesso, and Collistar’s L’Incenso.Consumers will be able to vote for their favorite scent from Jan. 22 to April 14 in Italian perfumeries, through the academy’s web site and Facebook page and in a dedicated booth housed at the upcoming edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, running March 15 to 19.Regarding the other categories, winners for best communication will be chosen by a special jury composed of entertainment personalities, athletes and artists, while the remaining prizes will be assigned by a technical jury, comprising Accademia del Profumo’s exponents, eight beauty editors and bloggers and eight retailers.In addition to the awards, Bertinelli said the academy will focus on consolidating its activities in promoting the olfactory culture next year.Among these, the traveling olfactory itinerary program “Straordinario sentire,” or “Extraordinary smelling,” will unveil its third chapter.Introduced last year in Milan and Florence, drawing more than 1,300 visitors, and successively held in Rome and Padua, attracting 5,000 people, the format will be replicated in 2018 in Spello, in the Italian region of Umbria, running June 8 to 10.The National Day of Perfume, which made its debut in the spring, will be also replicated on March 21, as a symbolic day in conjunction with the vernal equinox. The event aims to create a bridge between consumers and the industry’s professionals to further promote the perfumery business on a national scale.In particular, according to the Italian association of cosmetic companies Cosmetica Italia’s study center, in Italy alcohol perfumery products continued to grow in 2016, climbing 2.5 percent compared to the previous year, and totaling more than 1 billion euros. Niche fragrances represented 12.5 percent of the whole category, which is symbolic of the perception consumers have toward these products.In perfume shops, alcohol perfumery goods are still the best-selling category (40 percent), followed by skin-care products for the face (19.9 percent) and face makeup (8.9 percent).Trendwise, the market research provider Mintel showed the increasing consumption of male fragrances, aromatherapy products and ethical and sustainable perfumery goods in the period from 2012 to 2016, as these grew 6, 2 and 2 percent, respectively.“These trends will be also reaffirmed in the next future,” said Cosmetica Italia study center’s supervisor Gian Andrea Positano. “In five years, we expect an ever-increasing growth of the fragrances contributing to psychological wellness, gathered under the aromatherapy umbrella, and of the products linked to nature and environmental awareness.”
In honor the @CFDA’s announcement of @iamnaomicampbell receiving the Fashion Icon Award at the 2018 #CFDAAwards, which will take place on June 4, here’s a #tbt of the supermodel on @michaelkors’ runway in 1991. #wwdfashion #wwdarchive (📷: George Chinsee)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech during @sxsw for @createcultivate in partnership with @fossil. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.