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Anaïs Anaïs Scent Ready to Relaunch

Thirty-six years after launching its blockbuster women’s fragrance, Cacharel will introduce Anaïs Anaïs Premier Délice.

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PARIS — Thirty-six years after launching its blockbuster women’s scent Anaïs Anaïs, Cacharel will introduce Anaïs Anaïs Premier Délice — meant to embody the essence of today’s youth.

This story first appeared in the March 21, 2014 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

The original scent, from 1978, “was really the emblem of the late Seventies, this movement of sexual freedom, and it was really the fragrance of the young people,” said Nathalie Durán, international general manager of designer fragrance brands at L’Oréal, Cacharel’s fragrance licensee. “It was all very romantic; the [advertising] image [by] Sarah Moon gave to it a sense of art — it was an innovation, a piece of art with a very accessible price.”

In comparing and contrasting young people from then and now, there is a lot in common, such as a quest for self-expression and the importance of nature. But differences emerge, too.

“There is a reinvestment — or reengagement — of young people in nature, which is interesting; they give to it a magic power, and they really want to give magic to their daily life,” said Durán. “That’s what we expressed with Premier Délice, this shift between something that was very intimate, very secret, toward something that is more extroverted.”

Today, young women tend to join forces for projects, she added.

For the new scent’s bottle, the original Anaïs Anaïs’ opaque flacon was made transparent. And juicewise, “we went from musk to fruits and cocoa, which is powdery,” said Durán.

The new fragrance — a reinterpretation of Anaïs Anaïs — was created with Firmenich perfumers Dora Baghriche and Olivier Cresp. While each version was built around white flowers, Premier Délice (whose name means First Delight) also includes accords of green pear, white peony, freesia and cocoa, plus essences of bergamot and orange.

“We didn’t decide how young people should be; we let them take the project over from us,” she continued.

To wit, 19-year-old photographer Olivia Bee was given carte blanche for the advertising campaign, which includes 60-, 30- and 20-second spots destined for television.

Bee said she’s long had links to Anaïs Anaïs: Her grandmother gave it to her mother, for instance.

“I looked at all the Sarah Moon stuff and also the stuff with Kate Moss and the newer [images],” she said, adding it was obvious her ad would entail girls and flowers.

“We wanted it to be like an initiation into a tribe,” she continued. “I got this rough storyboard from [L’Oréal], and I really just ran with it and made it my own. I think the ad is very optimistic — definitely about girls of this generation.”

As part of the scent’s digital push, Cacharel has created cacharel-girlstribu.com — a platform meant to express feminine neo-romanticism — including an area where young female artists and the general public can post images in the vein of Premier Délice.

The fragrance’s launch begins in France starting April 1 and then follows in Belgium the second week of April, the Netherlands and Russia at the end of that month, and Spain in June. The scent’s South American introduction is expected next year.

In France, the eau de toilette will be available in 30-, 50- and 100-ml. sprays priced at 29.90 euros, 39.90 euros and 69.90 euros, or $41, $55 and $96 at current exchange, respectively.

L’Oréal executives would not discuss sales projections, but industry sources estimate Premier Délice will generate $40 million in retail sales during its first year globally.

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