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Back to the Future for Lanvin

As its name suggests, the Jeanne Lanvin women's scent is meant to evoke the essence of the fashion house's founder, while reaching into the future.

PARIS — As its name suggests, the Jeanne Lanvin women’s scent — due out this fall — is meant to evoke the essence of the fashion house’s founder, while reaching into the future.

This story first appeared in the August 29, 2008 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

“The fragrance is very different from the rest” in the Lanvin portfolio, said Philippe Benacin, chairman and managing director of Inter Parfums SA, whose parent company Inter Parfums holds the fashion brand’s fragrance license.

While it’s difficult to specify an age target for a scent’s users, it is possible Jeanne Lanvin will lure the 25-to-35 set, whereas Eclat d’Arpège tends to have a core consumer of 18- to 25-year-olds and Arpège, of women 40-plus, he said.

After the fall 2006 launch of Rumeur, the women’s scent whose core consumer is similar to Arpège’s, “we wanted to have something younger, fresher and much more romantic,” said Benacin. International Flavors & Fragrances’ Anne Flipo created the Jeanne Lanvin juice, which includes notes of blackberry, raspberry, citron, pear, white freesia, wild peony, sandalwood, gray amber and musk.

The new scent’s bottle design, executed by Thierry de Baschmakoff, was inspired by Lanvin fragrance flacons from the Forties and Fifties.

“We revisited the bottles and changed the cap a little to make it more modern,” said Benacin.

Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz suggested putting a pink silk tulle bow around the new fragrance bottle, which also has a grosgrain label reminiscent of the ribbons and other trimmings that give his ready-to-wear its romantic, feminine appeal.

“We took the bottle from the archives, but it was important to give it newness, relevance for today,” said Elbaz. “At the same time, it is something that has some sort of history. Without yesterday, we don’t have tomorrow.”

The label appears on the scent’s outer packaging, which is printed with tulle, as well.

In Jeanne Lanvin’s advertising photographed by Luciana Val and Franco Musso, which comes as single and double pages, model Ali Michael sports an Elbaz-created dress in tulle. She stands next to the flacon, which is almost her height.

“She looks a little impertinent,” said Benacin of the “Alice in Wonderland”-type shot. “I think the image is very easy to understand. It’s also poetic, feminine and romantic, and the fragrance matches quite well.”

The Jeanne Lanvin scent, which had an initial launch in July exclusively in Sephora’s Paris flagship — where it reportedly sold around 450 units during its first month — is to be introduced globally in September. In the U.S., it will have at least a one-year exclusive at Saks Fifth Avenue.

Inter Parfums executives would not discuss sales estimates, but industry sources reckon Jeanne Lanvin will generate $40 million in retail revenues between August and December.

The 100-ml. eau de parfum spray goes for 68 euros, or $105.20; the 50-ml. edp spray, 48 euros, or $74.30, and the 30-ml. edp spray, 36 euros, or $55.70. There are also ancillaries. Prices are for Europe.