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PARIS — Emilio Pucci is putting its swirling stamp on the scents of sun, sea and sand.
This story first appeared in the December 3, 2008 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
The LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned fashion brand — which is known for its vibrant, colorful prints — will introduce a trio of fragrances dubbed Vivara Variazioni starting in February.
Inspired by different elements of the Italian island of Vivara and the Pucci print of the same name, the scents follow the launch of Vivara, a new interpretation of the house’s 1966 first fragrance, which bowed last year.
“They’re variations on a theme,” said Isabelle Gex, managing director of Parfums Luxe International, a division of LVMH, which comprises the Pucci and Fendi fragrance businesses, of the new troika.
While the line has elements in common with Vivara, including a similar bottle and name, it was not conceived as a twist on the one-year-old fragrance, explained Alexandra Wolf, international marketing manager at PLI.
“With the collection, we wanted each fragrance to have its own personality,” she said. “The idea comes from the concept of Vivara as an island. We thought it would be interesting to create tributes to its natural elements and the Mediterranean environment.”
Dubbed Sole 149, Acqua 330 and Sabbia 167, the fragrances also play on Pucci’s fashion heritage. The numbers in each of the scents’ names, for example, are meant to recall color references, and each of the flacons’ caps incorporates the Vivara print in a corresponding hue.
“When we think of Pucci, we think of plays on color and motif,” said Alain Lorenzo, who is chairman and chief executive officer of Parfums Givenchy, as well as chairman of PLI. “If we think this way for fashion, we can obviously take a similar view for fragrance.”
Acqua 330’s packaging features a blue hue recalling the Mediterranean.
“We wanted to give that idea of salt on the skin,” said François Demachy, director of olfactive development at LVMH, who worked on all of the fragrances in association with other perfumers. He blended Acqua 330’s marine floral juice, which has notes of violet leaf, an aquatic accord, jasmine, frangipani and musks, with Givaudan’s Christophe Raynaud and Louise Turner.
Incorporating a yellow signature color in its packaging, Sole 149 is meant to channel the radiance of the sun. The aromatic floral juice, which was composed by Michel Girard of Givaudan, comprises notes of tomato leaf, galbanum, jasmine sambac, vetiver and patchouli.
Sabbia 167, a powdery floral, meanwhile, is meant to translate the idea of warm sand and skin warmed by the sun into scent, with notes of mandarin, lemon, iris and sandalwood. It was blended by Annick Ménardo of Firmenich.
Designer Helle Damkjaer added facets to the base of Vivara’s rounded bottle to create a sense of movement.
The eaux de toilette will be available as 50- and 100-ml. sprays, which will retail in France at 49 euros and 79 euros, respectively, or $61.96 and $99.90 at current exchange.
LVMH executives declined to discuss projections; however, industry sources estimate the line could generate first-year retail sales in the region of 10 million euros, or $12.6 million.
Vivara Variazioni will make its debut in the U.S. in February and will roll out to the U.K., Russia, Germany, Italy, Denmark, Sweden and the Middle East from March. A launch in France is also planned for spring. Promotional activity will focus on points of sale.
The trio could potentially be joined by other fragrances in the future, Wolf said.