PARIS — B de Boucheron, a new women’s scent due out this fall, celebrates the 150th anniversary of Boucheron being in the jewelry business and its first fragrance’s 20th birthday.
This story first appeared in the July 25, 2008 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
“We really decided to make a strong statement this year,” said Jean-Christophe Bedos, chief executive officer of the Place Vendôme jewelry house, which worked on the project with Boucheron’s fragrance licensee YSL Beauté, now part of L’Oréal. “We wanted to be perceived, seen and understood as the jeweler perfumer. And the concept therefore is to confirm and reaffirm our brand values in terms of the very high end.”
With that in mind, the scent project was given carte blanche vis-à-vis cost, and no market analysis was used for its conception.
Givaudan perfumer Ursula Wandel came up with a woody floral.
“There are about 20 natural products in B,” she said. “Today, it’s rare to have as many natural ingredients, since the price doesn’t allow for it.”
B’s juice includes notes of cedar from the Atlas Mountains, Australian sandalwood, patchouli, osmanthus flowers, apricot and spices, plus orange blossom and rose absolutes.
In the fragrance-meets-jewelry vein, B’s bottle design, created in-house, was inspired by Boucheron’s Exquises Confidences (Exquisite Confidences, in English) jewelry collection — especially its ear pendants. A direct nod is given to the jewelry’s patented pompon cut, pleat-like form and gems’ cabochon shape. The flacon’s deep color green took its cue from an emerald.
“The B is for Boucheron,” said Bedos, explaining the letter’s typography, seen on the bottle, was redesigned for the anniversary and includes a combination of French classical lettering and Art Nouveau style.
B is the most expensive fragrance in Boucheron’s scent portfolio, according to Marc Rey, ceo of YSL Beauté U.S.A. In the U.S., the 50-ml. eau de parfum spray will cost $110; the 100-ml. edp spray, $155; the 2-liter edp splash, $4,000; the 15-ml. perfume spray, $250; the 200-ml. bath and shower gel, $50, and the 200-ml. body cream, $90.
B is Boucheron’s seventh fragrance.
“In the U.S., we are going to be extremely limited in distribution — no more than a maximum of 200 points of sale,” said Rey, adding Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s, Bergdorf Goodman and some Nordstrom doors will be among retailers carrying the scent. In all, B should be in about one-third of Boucheron fragrances’ traditional distribution worldwide, including in all of its jewelry stores.
Although company executives would not discuss sales projections, industry sources estimate B will ring up $15 million to $20 million in retail sales during its first year.
Advertising for the scent was still under development at press time.
Boucheron’s largest fragrance markets are France, the U.S. and Middle East.