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MILAN — Bulgari is unveiling a new eau de toilette that underscores the link between perfume and jewelry as wearable luxury items and brings India into the limelight. Omnia Indian Garnet, which will hit shelves in April worldwide, is the latest addition to the brand’s best-selling Omnia line of scents, and part of a long-term plan by the 130-year-old Italian jeweler — owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton — to make the brand more exclusive.
This story first appeared in the March 28, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
“We had understood that Omnia was a fundamental line for Bulgari,” said Bulgari Parfums managing director Valeria Manini, noting that many customers actively collected the different scents, each of which is tied to a separate gem.
With the new edt, the focus is on India. Whereas predecessors such as Omnia Crystalline and Omnia Coral were gently evocative of jewels and nature, Omnia Indian Garnet ups the ante, referencing a mandarin garnet used in Bulgari jewelry but also channeling the rich colors and vibrancy associated with Indian textiles, spices and landscapes, both in the scent’s ingredients and in the advertising campaign. “We wanted an even more precise inspiration” than in the past, Manini said. “We have often explored India in our jewelry, but less so in fragrances. This was intended as an homage to India, in a very upscale way, but without lapsing into caricature.”
Top notes for Omnia Indian Garnet include mandarin and saffron, over a heart of Indian tuberose and osmanthus, and a drydown of Indian woods and amber. “The spark behind this creation was a Bulgari jewel, ‘Capriccio a Portofino,’ a one-of-a-kind necklace with splendid mandarin garnets carved in the shape of leaves,” said Firmenich perfumer Alberto Morillas.
The ad campaign, shot by Mikael Jansson, uses warm lighting and features model Edita Vilkeviciute in a scarlet dress putting on jewels as she prepares for an evening out.
Manini said the company expected especially strong sales across the EU, the U.S., the Middle East and India. Worldwide, distribution will reach more than 20,000 doors once rollout is complete.
“The Omnia Collection is our top-performing women’s brand in North America and continues to show positive results,” said Emmie Salaj, vice president of Bulgari Parfums North America, noting the edt will reach that market in time for Mother’s Day.
While Manini declined to cite sales expectations, industry sources suggested that the new edt could earn 30 million to 40 million euros, or about $41.4 million to $55.2 million at current exchange, in its first year on the market.
The fragrance will be available in three sizes. A 25-ml. version will retail for 46 euros (about $63), a 40-ml. bottle for 62 euros (about $85) and a 65-ml. bottle for 75 euros (about $103). A bath line will include beauty oil and a limited-edition 150-g. bar of scented soap.