Burberry the Beat for Men, due out this fall, is aptly named — its chief inspiration, said Burberry’s Christopher Bailey, was music.
“I think there is so much crossing over between creative mediums,” said Bailey, Burberry’s creative director, in a recent phone interview. “Art, design, fashion, music — they all feed off each other and inspire each other. So I sat with the perfumers and gave them a ton of music.
“I think it’s a bit lazy to say, ‘The guy is 18 to 25, lives in that type of house…’ I don’t care how old or how young the guy is,” continued Bailey. “It’s the attitude, and what taste the direction goes in. So the perfumers listened to the music as they were creating the fragrance, and they got it instantly.”
What they got, Bailey said, was the sense of “being young and effortless” that he was after.
“I wanted this fragrance to be about movement, energy — a younger, cooler, more urban Burberry,” he said. “I also wanted it to encompass film and the arts. As a brand, Burberry has so many different facets — there’s the traditional historic side, but also this incredible pop culture side. I love the historic side, and I use it as my foundation — I love that base, something that’s familiar and stable. But on top of that, you have to have a modernity, a modern relevance. And I didn’t want it to be too slick.”
For the record, the playlist given to International Flavors & Fragrances perfumers Olivier Polge and Domitille Bertier included cuts from the Fratellis, Razorlight, Kasabian and Arctic Monkeys. They interpreted that into a fresh woody scent that is a mix of leatherwood, vetiver bourbon, cedrat, black pepper and violet leaves accord. “The Beat for Men is very modern, very urban and well connected to London rock ’n’ roll,” said Philippe Bencin, chief executive officer of Inter Parfums Inc., which holds Burberry’s beauty license. “The fragrance is fresh and woody with a citrus start that should appeal to a younger audience.”
In the end, said Bailey, “this fragrance was from the heart, just as the women’s was. It wasn’t some big study. They wanted me to express the spirit of this person, which is what I did.” Bailey had the men’s version in mind when he created Burberry the Beat for Women, released this past March. “I knew they would be living together in the same universe, so they had to make sense together,” he said. “When we were designing, we kept both in mind. It actually made doing the men’s version very easy — it felt effortless.”
It may be an unorthodox approach, but it’s working, said Don Loftus, president and ceo of P&G Prestige Products in the U.S. He added that the Burberry fragrances have “consistently been top sellers” for P&G Prestige Products. “Some fashion houses run hot and cold, but Burberry’s on fire,” Loftus said. “They are particularly strong in men’s fragrances.” And he approves of the musical connection: “Both music and fragrance create a mood and change your point of view, so we think it’s an innovative way to approach the development process,” added Loftus.
Bloomingdale’s will launch the fragrance in September and it will be the retailer’s exclusive until February, when it will begin rolling out to its full U.S. universe of 2,600 department and specialty store doors. “Bloomingdale’s has been a great partner both for us and for the fashion house, so it made sense to give them the exclusive,” Loftus said.
The range includes eaux de toilette in 1.7 oz. and 2.5 oz. sizes, $55 and $65, respectively, which will be in store in September; a 3.4-oz. aftershave lotion coming in November, $50; a 5-oz. Soothing After-Shave Balm, $46; a 5-oz. Energizing Shower Gel, $32, and a 2.5-oz. deodorant stick, $26, all coming in January.
National print advertising, shot by David Sims, features a handful of Bailey’s favorite Brits — actor Alex Pettyfer, vocalist George Craig, musician-model Will Cameron, vocalist-guitarist Kristian Walker and creative artist-talent manager Jonny Epstein. Stateside, it will break in The New York Times in October, followed by December placements in men’s and lifestyle magazines.
“I wanted real people doing real things, not just a bunch of models,” said Bailey, adding that he knew all five men from previous projects. “I didn’t want it to be just about a handsome guy looking smolderingly into the camera. The ad image is so important to show your point of view — I wanted to articulate the fragrance’s attitude with the visual. Together, they sum up the feeling that anything is possible.”
While none of the executives would discuss sales projections, industry sources estimate that Burberry the Beat for Men will do about $30 million at retail in the U.S. in its first year on counter. P&G Prestige Beauty is said to be spending about $15 million on advertising and promotion for the fragrance in the U.S.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)