By  on December 29, 2008

By Kilian, the niche perfume line launched last year at Bergdorf Goodman in the U.S. and Printemps in Paris, is revving up plans to expand its business in the U.S.

The first step: to launch in September an eighth scent, details of which are being kept under wraps for now by the brand’s founder, 36-year-old Kilian Hennessy, heir to the Hennessy cognac business.

There are also plans to expand By Kilian’s existing distribution at Saks Fifth Avenue.

While Hennessy would not discuss revenue projections, industry sources estimate that with the new strategic initiatives, retail sales of the brand could expand from 3 million euros, or $4.2 million at current exchange, in 2008, to 8 million euros, or $11.2 million, in 2009.

“I had a desire to do a true creation,” said Hennessy, discussing his choice not to embark on a fragrance effort that involved mass-production of scents. “It should be a creation and not commercial for the market.

“We’re doing perfume the way it was done 100 years ago,” added Hennessy, a Paris native who began in the fragrance business in 1995 and has worked for Dior, Puig, Gucci and L’Oréal.

Outside of Bergdorf’s, distribution of the Paris-based By Kilian brand was expanded in the U.S. during the summer to four Saks Fifth Avenue locations: San Francisco, Beverly Hills, Las Vegas and South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., noted Elisabeth Noel Jones, who was named the firm’s chief executive officer for North America around the time of the Saks expansion.

“With Saks, we plan to open three or four doors per season,” Jones said. As yet, additional Saks doors slated to carry the brand for spring have not been confirmed. By Kilian is also carried at Aedes de Venustas, Lucky Scents and Apothia Fred Segal, as well as at Holt Renfrew in Canada.

“We plan to launch one scent per year,” said Hennessy, “[and] the brand has been taking off since Elisabeth joined.”

He hinted that for By Kilian’s eighth scent, tobacco and wood olfactive accords could play a part. Givaudan perfumer Calice Becker, who has done five of the seven existing By Kilian fragrances, will compose number eight, assured Hennessy.

Existing scents in the line, like Prelude to Love (a September entry), are priced at $115 and $225 for refillable bottles, each 1.7 oz. The more expensive version can be refilled at home. The brand also markets six candles and in March will introduce travel spray.

There are also 1-liter flacons for $2,500.

While distribution of the brand is worldwide, it is kept to an airtight network of a handful of doors in major cities, such as 10 Corso Como in Milan and in stores in France, London, Belgium and Germany, where the brand was just introduced.

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