By Kilian, the niche perfume line launched last year at Bergdorf Goodman in the U.S. and Printemps in Paris, is revving up plans to expand its business in the U.S.
The first step: to launch in September an eighth scent, details of which are being kept under wraps for now by the brand’s founder, 36-year-old Kilian Hennessy, heir to the Hennessy cognac business.
There are also plans to expand By Kilian’s existing distribution at Saks Fifth Avenue.
While Hennessy would not discuss revenue projections, industry sources estimate that with the new strategic initiatives, retail sales of the brand could expand from 3 million euros, or $4.2 million at current exchange, in 2008, to 8 million euros, or $11.2 million, in 2009.
“I had a desire to do a true creation,” said Hennessy, discussing his choice not to embark on a fragrance effort that involved mass-production of scents. “It should be a creation and not commercial for the market.
“We’re doing perfume the way it was done 100 years ago,” added Hennessy, a Paris native who began in the fragrance business in 1995 and has worked for Dior, Puig, Gucci and L’Oréal.
Outside of Bergdorf’s, distribution of the Paris-based By Kilian brand was expanded in the U.S. during the summer to four Saks Fifth Avenue locations: San Francisco, Beverly Hills, Las Vegas and South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., noted Elisabeth Noel Jones, who was named the firm’s chief executive officer for North America around the time of the Saks expansion.
“With Saks, we plan to open three or four doors per season,” Jones said. As yet, additional Saks doors slated to carry the brand for spring have not been confirmed. By Kilian is also carried at Aedes de Venustas, Lucky Scents and Apothia Fred Segal, as well as at Holt Renfrew in Canada.
“We plan to launch one scent per year,” said Hennessy, “[and] the brand has been taking off since Elisabeth joined.”
He hinted that for By Kilian’s eighth scent, tobacco and wood olfactive accords could play a part. Givaudan perfumer Calice Becker, who has done five of the seven existing By Kilian fragrances, will compose number eight, assured Hennessy.
Existing scents in the line, like Prelude to Love (a September entry), are priced at $115 and $225 for refillable bottles, each 1.7 oz. The more expensive version can be refilled at home. The brand also markets six candles and in March will introduce travel spray.
There are also 1-liter flacons for $2,500.
While distribution of the brand is worldwide, it is kept to an airtight network of a handful of doors in major cities, such as 10 Corso Como in Milan and in stores in France, London, Belgium and Germany, where the brand was just introduced.
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@badgalriri’s @fentybeauty launch in September was a massive success on social media, powering $72.9 million of earned media value, according to Tribe Dynamics. The brand’s foundation offering sparked conversations about diversity in beauty, launching the growth of emerging influencers and propelling the brand’s support on social media. Today, #fentybeauty won Launch of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📷: Chema Moya/EPE-EFE)
@marianna_hewitt has become one of the most influential content creators in the beauty space, with almost 800,000 Instagram followers and a newly launched skin care line called @SummerFridays. Today, she was awarded Influencer of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📸: @sophiachabbott )
As shopping behaviors evolve, the retail experience must follow. Head over to retail experts @colliersinternational’s Knowledge Leader series to read more about the shift in our shopping era. #colliersretail #lovecolliers
@prada opened a pop-up club, called Prada Double Club, in collaboration with German artist Cartsen Höller at @artbasel Miami. Last night, guests – including @youngparis, @ritaora and even Miuccia Prada herself – gathered in a former ice factory where the pop-up is housed for a performance from @wyclefjean. Go to WWD.com for full coverage on all the exhibits, parties and more at #ArtBaselMiami. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@louboutinworld and @disney are making magic once again, creating a set of shoe designs for the release of “Star Wars: The Last Jedi.” Louboutin designed a pair of shoes for each of the film’s four female leads: Rey (@daisyridrey), Vice Admiral Amilyn Holdo (@lauradern), Captain Phasma (Gwendoline Christie) and Rose Tico (@kellymarietran). The shoes will debut on Saturday at the L.A. premiere of the latest episode. #wwdfashion
Today at the #BeautyIncAwards 2017, WWD will be joined by beauty leaders from around the world as we honor this year's most innovative people, products, brands and places. Follow along here and on Twitter for live coverage from the exclusive event. #wwdsummits (📷: @elizaflorendo)
Exclusive: Beauty superinfluencer @marianna_hewitt is launching her first-ever skin care brand with her business partner @laurengores. Their new line Summer Fridays, which will be sold exclusively at summerfridays.com starting in January, is launching with just one product – a hydrating cream Jet Lag Mask. “We wanted to focus on one product that was amazing,” said Hewitt. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Michelin star-rated chef PJ Calapa marks his first solo endeavor with today’s opening of @scampinyc –– the new Southern Italian restaurant located in Manhattans’ Flatiron District. The upscale yet welcoming environment matches the menu, which includes two types of scampi: traditional Italian langoustines in butter and the Americanized version with shrimp over pasta 🍤 - pictured here. #wwdeye (📷: George Chinsee)