LONDON — By Kilian, the privately owned, niche fragrance brand, is revving up business with plans to open stand-alone stores, and a new trio of unisex fragrances inspired by Adam and Eve.
The brand’s founder and owner Kilian Hennessy has recently launched In the Garden of Good and Evil, a collection of three fragrances with notes drawn from fruits, spices, flowers and wood. The fragrances come — appropriately — in a lacquered box with a gold serpent slithering across the top.
At the end of last year, the brand also opened its first stand-alone store, a 756-square-foot space at the Crocus City Mall in Moscow. Hennessy confirmed his plans to open units in Paris and New York, and said he is currently hunting for space.
The three fragrances are sold separately in reusable, 50-ml. bottles, and cost $245 each. The fragrances, which had been pre-sold, rolled out at stores including Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Harvey Nichols, Printemps and Le Bon Marché.
The collection will roll out to 170 doors worldwide in the spring. By Kilian has 19 fragrances on the market, and the bestsellers are Love, Don’t Be Shy for women, and Straight to Heaven, White Cristal, for men.
In an interview here, the Paris-based Hennessy said he wanted to create a contemporary metaphor for the Garden of Eden, and work on the theme of temptation. “The entire collection has been built on forbidden fruit,” Hennessy said.
In the City of Sin, the first of the trio, was created by the perfumer Calice Becker, and opens with notes including bergamot from Calabria and pink peppercorns. It also includes notes of apricot, caramelized plums, Turkish rose and Indonesian patchouli.
The second, created by the perfumer Alberto Morillas, is called Good Girl Gone Bad, and is built on an unfolding of floral notes: It opens with jasmine sambac and Chinese osmanthus, and later reveals notes of Indian tuberose and rose of May, and finishes with Virginia cedar and amber.
The third and final fragrance is Forbidden Games, also created by Becker, which offers notes of apple, peach and plum, with Bulgarian rose at its heart, and a dry-down that contains honey from Laos and Madagascan vanilla.
The fragrance trio is expected to generate $15 million in retail sales in the first year.
Rihanna, Hennessy said, prepurchased two of the scents — In the City of Sin and Good Girl Gone Bad — at Saks Fifth Avenue in Beverly Hills.
The rectangular glass bottles have galvanized, 24-karat gold caps and plaques with the name of the fragrance engraved on each one. Snakes, grape leaves and ringlike doorknobs have been carved into the sides of the bottle and covered with matte white lacquer. Hennessy said he wanted the bottle to embody “virginal white and the vanity of gold.”
The slim box — which doubles as a clutch — is based on an old Van Cleef & Arpels minaudière. It is made from aluminum covered in white lacquer and is adorned with a galvanized gold snake with clear Swarovski Elements eyes.
Once the bottle is removed, the bag can fit an iPhone, a lipstick and a credit card.