By  on December 29, 2011

PARIS — Byredo continues to grow at a rapid clip.

The independent fragrance house started by Ben Gorham about five years ago recently debuted a 220-square-foot shop-in-shop in Le Bon Marché department store here. The streamlined location’s decor echoes the colors and textures of Byredo’s freestanding boutique in Stockholm.

Fragrancewise, the brand just introduced Seven Veils, a spicy vanilla concoction. As part of the launch, Byredo began selling a limited edition line of silk scarves that were tumbled in fragrance. (Fittingly, seven models were created, and each has a print run of 25.)

“It gives you the ability to wear the scarf as a perfume or as a veil,” said Gorham.

The Byredo line has 15 fragrances, plus body lotions, washes and creams. There’s also a candle collection with separate scents. Altogether, including the recently launched travel-size products, there are about 120 stockkeeping units.

Gorham took almost one year to create leather travel cases.

“Working with leather, I became quite obsessed with it as a material, so I actually in parallel have been working on a small leather-goods collection,” he said. “It prelaunched this year and then the big launch is next spring.

“We kind of brought back 17th-century French techniques of perfuming leather,” continued Gorham.

So, what else is up next for Byredo?

“I am doing a reference for color cosmetics that I’m really into, which is like a jump back into a very aesthetic beauty reference,” said Gorham, who kept mum on the project’s details except to say it could hit shelves within six to eight months. “It’s something I’m really excited about because of its visual orientation.”

And, of course, other fragrances are in the works.

Today, Byredo is available in 24 markets but only through highly selective distribution of approximately 90 sales points. In Paris, for instance, the brand is sold just in Colette and Le Bon Marché. And in the U.S., it’s carried in Barneys New York. Last month, Byredo was introduced in two Holt Renfrew doors in Canada, and will make its debut in four Middle East-based locations in February.

“There’s been a lot of building,” said Gorham, adding he endeavors to pace the rate of expansion. “In most cities, I try to be very focused, but I’m hoping to open more stand-alone stores in the next 18 months.”

Interest lies in London, Paris and New York, alongside some Asian cities, such as Tokyo and Hong Kong.

Byredo was begun after Gorham graduated from art school and met a perfumer for the first time.

“I commissioned two perfumers to help me translate very specific ideas into perfume at that point,” he said. “And it kind of grew into more of an obsession.”

Gorham started with a collection of five scents and a few candles.

“It’s really just spiraled and grown since then,” he said.

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