Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel famously remarked “a women who doesn’t wear perfume has no future” and, later this month, the company which bears her name will release Coco Noir, an homage to her memory.
In addition to honoring the designer, the scent is also intended to examine the interplay between light and dark and the luminosity of black and Baroque elements, noted Christine Dagousset, executive vice president of fragrances and beauté at Chanel Inc., calling it “addictive.”
The scent is a “luminous, transparent oriental,” said Christopher Sheldrake, perfumer for Chanel.
The fragrance, which Chanel’s master perfumer, Jacques Polge, concocted, has top notes of grapefruit and Calabrian bergamot; a heart of rose absolute, rose essence, jasmine absolute, narcissus and rose geranium leaf, and a drydown of Brazilian tonka bean, Venezuelan tonka bean, Indonesia patchouli, New Caledonian sandalwood, bourbon vanilla and white musk frankincense. Sheldrake noted that bergamot adds freshness to the mix, while geranium leaf lends brightness and narcissus lends “animal sensuality.”
Noir’s bottle is in the classic Coco shape, executed in black with gold accents. “You can’t see the juice inside, which makes it more mysterious,” said Sheldrake.
Noir is the third in the brand’s Coco franchise; the original, Coco, bowed in 1984, while blockbuster Coco Mademoiselle was introduced in 2001. While all three are oriental scents, Noir is a luminous oriental, Coco a floral oriental and Mademoiselle a fresh oriental, said Sheldrake.
“Noir sits in its own space,” said Sheldrake. “We are careful not to launch a lot of fragrances — we choose to create scents that represent an era, not a passing fancy. ”
Dagousset concurred, saying adamantly that Noir will not cannibalize Chanel’s existing fragrance business. “This is more about bringing new choices to Chanel,” she said.
A 1.7-oz. Noir eau de parfum will retail for $98 in the U.S.; a 3.4-oz. size will sell for $130. Ancillaries are slated to join the collection within the next 12 months.
A prelaunch sampling program in a handful of upscale U.S. retailers began Aug. 1, “The intention was to create buzz,” said Dagousset. The scent will appear on counter Aug. 17 globally.
While Chanel’s total fragrance universe in the U.S. is comprised of 2,000 department and specialty stores, only about 700 of them will get Coco Noir at launch. Launch retailers in the U.S. include Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale’s. Although executives declined to break out sales projections, industry sources estimate that the new fragrance could generate as much as $20 million at retail in the U.S. in its first year on counter, despite the limited distribution.
Print advertising, which will begin dropping in September fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, was shot by Guido Mocafico and features a hero shot of the bottle. A social media program is also planned, although Chanel declined to offer additional details.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)