Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel famously remarked “a women who doesn’t wear perfume has no future” and, later this month, the company which bears her name will release Coco Noir, an homage to her memory.
In addition to honoring the designer, the scent is also intended to examine the interplay between light and dark and the luminosity of black and Baroque elements, noted Christine Dagousset, executive vice president of fragrances and beauté at Chanel Inc., calling it “addictive.”
The scent is a “luminous, transparent oriental,” said Christopher Sheldrake, perfumer for Chanel.
The fragrance, which Chanel’s master perfumer, Jacques Polge, concocted, has top notes of grapefruit and Calabrian bergamot; a heart of rose absolute, rose essence, jasmine absolute, narcissus and rose geranium leaf, and a drydown of Brazilian tonka bean, Venezuelan tonka bean, Indonesia patchouli, New Caledonian sandalwood, bourbon vanilla and white musk frankincense. Sheldrake noted that bergamot adds freshness to the mix, while geranium leaf lends brightness and narcissus lends “animal sensuality.”
Noir’s bottle is in the classic Coco shape, executed in black with gold accents. “You can’t see the juice inside, which makes it more mysterious,” said Sheldrake.
Noir is the third in the brand’s Coco franchise; the original, Coco, bowed in 1984, while blockbuster Coco Mademoiselle was introduced in 2001. While all three are oriental scents, Noir is a luminous oriental, Coco a floral oriental and Mademoiselle a fresh oriental, said Sheldrake.
“Noir sits in its own space,” said Sheldrake. “We are careful not to launch a lot of fragrances — we choose to create scents that represent an era, not a passing fancy. ”
Dagousset concurred, saying adamantly that Noir will not cannibalize Chanel’s existing fragrance business. “This is more about bringing new choices to Chanel,” she said.
A 1.7-oz. Noir eau de parfum will retail for $98 in the U.S.; a 3.4-oz. size will sell for $130. Ancillaries are slated to join the collection within the next 12 months.
A prelaunch sampling program in a handful of upscale U.S. retailers began Aug. 1, “The intention was to create buzz,” said Dagousset. The scent will appear on counter Aug. 17 globally.
While Chanel’s total fragrance universe in the U.S. is comprised of 2,000 department and specialty stores, only about 700 of them will get Coco Noir at launch. Launch retailers in the U.S. include Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale’s. Although executives declined to break out sales projections, industry sources estimate that the new fragrance could generate as much as $20 million at retail in the U.S. in its first year on counter, despite the limited distribution.
Print advertising, which will begin dropping in September fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, was shot by Guido Mocafico and features a hero shot of the bottle. A social media program is also planned, although Chanel declined to offer additional details.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews