France’s first lady of fragrance is back — and this time, she’s doing it her way.
Chantal Roos, the powerhouse behind such legendary juices as YSL’s Opium and Issey Miyake’s L’Eau d’Issey, has teamed with her daughter, Alexandra, to create a quintet of scents aimed at high-end consumers. Rather than catering to a designer’s demands, however, this time Roos is creating the DNA for Dear Rose, her new range of scents.
“In my roles creating fragrances for YSL, Issey Miyake and Jean Paul Gaultier, I always worked within an established DNA — sexiness, transparence, whatever, etc. — and my job was to take that DNA and transform it into a fragrance,” said Roos. “This is the first time I have started completely from scratch. With Dear Rose, I am creating my story and my daughter’s. The dear is for the emotion, and rose is a mythical flower in fragrance.”
In fact, it was her daughter who inspired Roos to take the leap, said Roos.
“Alexandra is an artist — she has launched four records and writes music — and she asked me why I’d never considered launching my own fragrance,” said Roos. “In the process of helping me start development, she also fell in love with the process. To transmit something of your savoir faire to the next generation — it is a wonderful feeling. It is as if we had always been doing it together. And even when I am a very old woman, I will have a place to go to be useful.”
Roos was determined to create an offering that was completely different from what is currently on the market — including nontraditional names and ingredient combinations. “There is no point in doing the same thing using the same bottle and a lack of creativity and emotion,” she said. “That is the lack of a good reason to launch something.”
A Capella combines notes of rosebud absolute, ivy leaf and luminous white woods, which capture the morning sun, said Roos. I Love My Man addresses the joy of love with notes of Bulgarian and centifolia rose, cinnamon, tonka bean and sandalwood. Bloody Rose, which combines ylang-ylang, orange flower, incense and patchouli, addresses the choice to love. Sympathy for the Sun, an ode to love on the beach, combines jasmine petal, peony and salt. La Favorite, a combination of pink pepper, saffron, oud wood and patchouli, is intended to capture the heady essences of evening, noted Roos.
The scents were concocted with Firmenich’s Fabrice Pellegrin, Roos added.
Each scent will sell for 125 euros, or $173 at current exchange, for a 100-ml. eau de parfum.
The collection will begin rolling out in May to select niche perfumeries in France, Germany, Austria and Australia, and Roos is currently eyeing U.S. distribution, which could include independent perfumeries and high-end specialty stores. She is currently working with a distribution agent, Different Latitude, which represents brands in that niche distribution. “We will grow slowly, as our company is just the two of us right now,” said Roos. “We also want to look for the right distribution opportunities.”
While Roos declined comment on projected sales, industry sources estimated that the fragrances could do roughly $3 million in retail sales in their first year on counter.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)