PARIS — Leave it to Rei Kawakubo to concoct one of the most inscrutable — and therefore unmissable — events of Paris Fashion Week.
Part perfume launch, part shop opening, the gathering Friday will also come with liberal doses of humor, including a fake television commercial for a new Comme des Garçons scent that boasts notes of industrial glue and brown — not clear — Scotch tape.
The 540-square-foot boutique — across the courtyard from the Comme des Garçons flagship on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré — is the second location for Kawakubo’s experimental Trading Museum concept, which showcases items to look at and others to buy. The first opened in Tokyo’s Gyre building in 2009.
Housing everything from bullet-shaped ceramics by James Salaiz to shoe-handbag hybrids by A’N’D, the Paris unit will introduce European shoppers to a range of cult and emerging labels. These include new Kawakubo protégé Ganryu, who has his own brand under the Comme des Garçons umbrella in the vein of Junya Watanabe and Tao.
Adrian Joffe, chief executive officer of Comme des Garçons International and Kawakubo’s husband, described Ganryu’s unisex collection, now in its fourth season, as a combination of rock ’n’ roll and streetwear. “He’s taking off in Japan now, and it’s time to bring him to Europe and America,” Joffe said.
Noritaka Tatehana, whose devotees include Lady Gaga and Daphne Guinness, is to display his extreme, gravity-defying footwear designs, some of which can be made-to-order.
Other tongue-twisting designers on offer include Ek Thongprasert, a Thailand-born designer who employed silicon to create an exclusive range of new-look ethnic necklaces.
The fake ads come courtesy of Katerina Jebb, a British-born, Paris-based photographer and artist.
Joffe declined to disclose the name of the new perfume, but said it would be housed in a new flacon Kawakubo designed, the first since her pebble-shaped bottle from 1994. Limited quantities of the scent will be on sale at the party, with a broader rollout to follow.
Described as having a linear structure, the scent includes aldehydes and safraleine; hawthorns and lilac; flower oxides, and hints of musk and styrax, in addition to the glue and tape notes.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)