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Courrèges Severs Ties With Perfume Licensee

The French fashion label plans to manage its fragrance division in-house.

PARIS — French fashion house Courrèges has severed its ties with its perfume licensee Lorience Paris and plans to take over the management of its fragrance division in-house, according to Frédéric Torloting, co-owner and co-president of the label famed for its Space Age creations.

“We signed an agreement yesterday which formalizes the end of our contractual relationship. Lorience is no longer the licensee of Courrèges,” Torloting told WWD on Thursday. Lorience will continue to deliver to existing accounts until an alternative structure is put into place, he added.

“We are going to manage the perfumes ourselves,” Torloting explained. “We are not announcing right away how we plan to do it, because obviously we will hire people, experts in the field, and in parallel we will form partnerships with people who are also specialized in this sector.”

Courrèges and Lorience Paris entered into a license agreement in July 2011, but have been in conflict since April 2013 on a range of issues. Torloting noted Lorience had reintroduced Courrèges perfumes in 1,200 points of sale in France, including the Marionnaud and Nocibé perfumery chains and department store chain Galeries Lafayette.

However, he and his business partner Jacques Bungert were dissatisfied with other elements of the partnership, including the quality of certain perfume gifts with purchase distributed by Lorience Paris.

“We don’t do a lot of products because we are still a small company, so we are very watchful of everything that comes out,” he said. “We want to bring high standards to everything we do, and it is not necessarily easy for a licensee to match those, so we had a hard time working together toward the end.”

Courrèges has three fragrances on the market: Empreinte, Eau de Courrèges and Blanc. Officials at Lorience Paris, which also holds the licenses for Mauboussin and Lulu Castagnette perfumes, did not return a call for comment.