Donna Karan is heading back into the fragrance arena with Woman, slated for an August launch.
“This project represents Donna’s supportive messages to women,” said Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, global brand president of Aramis and Designer Fragrances, BeautyBank and Idea Bank at the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., Karan’s fragrance licensee. “She has always tried to enhance every woman’s best features. She makes you feel beautiful, no matter what.”
Karan worked with architect Zaha Hadid to create the bottle for Woman, which looks like a free-form sculpture. Its curving shape is designed to harmonize with Karan’s 1994 best-selling Cashmere Mist bottle. The earlier flacon was created by Karan’s late husband, Stephan Weiss, a sculptor who created the bottles for the Karan fragrance franchise. While attesting to the originality of Hadid’s bottle design for Woman, Karan characterized her work as “the next step” in design evolution. “This is Zaha’s bottle,” the designer said, while underscoring the bedrock contribution Weiss had made in establishing the brand.
For Karan, part of the power of women springs from their collaboration with men. “There is a man in every woman,” she said in a phone interview with WWD, attributing a large part of the success of her fragrance business to Weiss. “He made all the bottles; he did everything,” she said of Weiss. “I did help a little bit.” She then detailed her successful fragrances of the past and talked about how Weiss had designed the bottles and also worked on the concepts behind the packaging. “Woman — a woman and a man all coming together for me — that is the power of a woman,” Karan said.
She also noted that the fragrance is as complex as the women who will wear it.
Karan and perfumer Anne Flipo worked with Trudi Loren, vice president of corporate fragrance development worldwide for the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., and International Flavors & Fragrances to create the juice. Built around a core of sandalwood and Haitian vetiver, the mix also includes orange flower.
The collection includes eaux de parfum in two sizes, 1.7 oz. for $85 and 3.4 oz. for $115, as well as a 6.7-oz. body lotion, $50, and a 6.7-oz. body cleansing lotion, $45.
At launch, Woman will be carried in about 240 doors in the U.S., including Bloomingdale’s, Lord & Taylor, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue. It will enter the U.K. at Harrods later this fall.
The ad campaign, shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, is intended to “celebrate the accomplished yet sensual side of multifaceted women,” said Carol Russo, senior vice president and general manager, North America, for Aramis and Designer Fragrances and BeautyBank. It features Christy Turlington Burns, Karolina Kurkvova and Liya Kebede and will begin running in September fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines.
As well, the brand plans more than 15 million scented impressions, said Russo. While executives declined to comment on projected sales, industry sources estimated that Donna Karan Woman would do about $20 million at retail globally in its first year on counter. Industry sources also estimated that about $10 million would be spent on advertising and promotion.
Karan also is thinking about a fragrance project of her own to aid a cause that she has become passionate about: saving Haiti. Her idea is to create a fragrance based on vetiver, which can be found on the island. Then her fellow fashion designers could be enlisted to design the packaging.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast