PARIS – Goodwill impairments in Germany and Spain helped dampen Douglas Group’s net profit during the fiscal year 2016-17.Adjusted net income for the parent of the Douglas perfumery chain came in at a loss of 162 million euros in the year ended Sept. 30, versus a loss of 102 million euros in fiscal 2015-16. On a like-for-like basis, however, adjusted net profit was in the black, to 75 million euros, against 24 million euros in the prior year.In the most recent 12-month reporting period, the company’s net sales advanced 3.2 percent to 2.8 billion euros in reported terms and rose 1.5 percent on a comparable basis, despite a competitive environment, the company said on Thursday.“All of our regional segments, with the exception of Germany, contributed to the increase in like-for-like sales and adjusted EBITDA,” said Michael Rauch, Douglas Group chief financial officer, during a call with financial analysts.He was referring to the adjusted EBITDA of 354.3 million euros in fiscal 2016-17, which was up 5.1 percent versus the prior year.Douglas’ domestic business continues to suffer after the terrorist attack on German soil last December. Rauch noted that following such an occurrence it generally takes about 12 to 18 months for customer traffic to pick up again.But Internet sales weren’t dampened, continuing to build momentum.“E-commerce, with 18 percent growth, remains the key contributor to our overall sales growth, with online shops operating in 17 countries, accounting for 14 percent of total sales [or 383 million euros] at the end of last fiscal year compared to 12 percent in the same period last year,” said Rauch.Douglas ramped up its loyalty card activities, too, adding almost 2.7 million additional holders of the new Douglas beauty card, which was launched at the end of last year in Germany. That brought the total count to more than 5.6 million cardholders domestically. Altogether, over 7 million fidelity cardholders were added to make a total of 27 million, the company said.During the past year, Douglas closed the acquisitions of the Limoni/La Gardenia, Bodybell and Perfumerias If stores for a total purchase price, net of cash acquired, of 330 million euros. Douglas said following the buys, which led to a one-off expense of about 50 million euros, it now has pole perfumery position in Germany, France, Spain, Italy and Poland.Douglas Group has 1,915 stores in 19 countries altogether.During the question-and-answer session, Douglas executives fielded a query about their view of the European Union’s Court of Justice’s judgment announced Wednesday, which confirmed that in order to preserve its products’ image, a luxury goods supplier can forbid authorized distributors from selling goods on third-party Internet platforms according to criteria.As reported the court had reviewed proceedings begun in 2012 in Germany by Coty Germany against an authorized distributor, Parfümerie Akzente, with the aim of prohibiting it from distributing Coty’s products on amazon.de, in accordance with a contractual clause.“[It] protects us from this kind of online competition, specifically on Amazon, by maintaining for us our opportunities to use this channel for our non-selective assortment,” Tina Müller, Douglas Group’s newly appointed chief executive officer, said. “So we value and we see this decision very positively for our business.”
For its next men’s wear collection, @roberto_cavalli will show as a special guest at #PittiUomo, running from June 12-15. The brand, which has Florence in its roots, will relaunch its men’s wear collection, which will be presented separately from women’s wear for the first time since Paul Surridge was appointed creative director in May. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech at the @sxsw conference for @createcultivate, the online platform and conference series for women. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.