The Estée Lauder brand aims to reclaim its fragrance heritage this fall with the introduction of Modern Muse, its most comprehensive women’s scent statement since the 2003 launch of Beyond Paradise.
The company that empowered women to buy their own fragrance in 1953 with the launch of Youth Dew now plans to build upon that legacy. Due out in September, Modern Muse is positioned to cast women as stars in their own lives, noted Jane Hertzmark Hudis, global president of the Estée Lauder brand at the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.
“This is the most important fragrance moment we’ve had in a decade,” said Hudis, who noted that the muse concept played well with Lauder’s rich heritage in fragrance. “Modern Muse captures what it means today to be independent and confident in one’s own sense of self and style.” She added that by using the term Modern Muse “we mean the idea of confidence that inspires.”
In addition, it makes for a compelling story “not only to our existing consumer base but to new, younger consumers.”
Hudis noted that the launch also provides an opportunity to beef up the brand’s fragrance business. “We have strong makeup and skin-care businesses, and certainly a commitment to fragrance classics like Youth Dew, Beautiful and White Linen. This new piece will add newness, but we believe this concept will hold on for a very long time to come.”
“We want to reassert ourselves as a fragrance powerhouse,” added Charisse Ford, senior vice president of global marketing for the Estée Lauder brand. Hudis added, “As a global player, it’s important for Estée Lauder to play in all three categories.”
The importance of this launch is evident in the expectations that have been circulating throughout the market. As in the past, Lauder declined to break out sales projections or budgets, but industry sources estimate that the new scent is aiming for a target as high as $95 million at retail globally within its first year on counter. That’s $57 million in wholesale value. Sources in the market speculate that in order to hit that lofty target, Lauder might be investing $50 million in advertising and promotional support.
Karyn Khoury, senior vice president of corporate fragrance development worldwide for the Estée Lauder Cos., noted that the juice is “modern, and has the subtlety of contrasting forces…a modern muse is a study in contrasts. It’s about dynamic tension in a woman’s life.” Khoury added that the interplay of different forces — softness and strength — can propel women forward and serve as inspirations.
Modern Muse was designed to give a dual impression. Khoury worked with Firmenich’s Harry Fremont to create the fragrance, which is built around two key accords: sparkling jasmine and sleek woods. The first accord combines exotic mandarin, tuberose, fresh lily, honeysuckle nectar, dewy petals, jasmine sambac and jasmine sambac China absolute. “Using two different forms of jasmine gives us a textured, layered effect, which adds depth to the juice,” said Khoury. “It’s a dual-impression creative approach.”
Khoury did the same thing with the sleek woods accord, which includes two different forms of patchouli, along with Madagascar vanilla, amber wood and soft musk.
The sparkling jasmine accord is intended to impart a feminine side, while the sleek woods accord represents strength, said Khoury.
Eaux de parfum in three sizes — 1 oz., 1.7 oz. and 3.4 oz, retailing for $58, $78 and $98, respectively — will be offered, as will a will be offered as will a 1-oz. parfum, a 6.7-oz. body lotion and a 6.7-oz. shower gel, retailing for $285, $50 and $50, respectively. While the majority of the collection makes its debut in September, the body lotion and shower gel will hit counters in late October and the parfum will be sold starting in February.
The fragrance bottle features a soft pink-tinted juice and a spray-through cap with a built-in, structured navy bow. The outer packaging follows these color cues and features an artistic sketch of the bottle inside. The pink was chosen to represent the soft, feminine side of today’s woman, while navy blue signifies the trademark color of the Estée Lauder brand, noted Hudis. In addition to traditional sampling, the brand plans to install dramming units at countertop.
The global rollout will be in phases. In the U.S., the scent will make its debut in about 2,200 department and specialty stores in September. The U.K., Switzerland, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand and Latin America will get Modern Muse this fall, while Europe and the remainder of the world will get the fragrance beginning in January.
Both TV and print advertising are planned, both featuring the aptly named Arizona Muse. Stuart Dryburgh shot the TV campaign in New York City’s Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum; the print ad, shot by Craig McDean, was shot in the same museum (history buffs take note: The eight bows on Muse’s dress and the one on the bottle in the ad are intended to represent the nine original muses who inspired art and beauty in ancient Greek mythology). The print campaign will include multipage ads and gatefolds, and will begin running in September fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines. Digital will also be a major piece of the campaign, noted Richard Ferretti, senior vice president and global creative director for Estée Lauder.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews