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MILAN — Fendi is feeling fierce.
This story first appeared in the June 27, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
The luxury Italian firm, part of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, is introducing Furiosa Fendi, a women’s eau de parfum that captures the animal spirit of the fashion house. It will make its debut in September in Italy and select international markets.
With an original bottle created by jewelry designer Delfina Delettrez Fendi, a member of the fashion house’s fourth generation, Furiosa is presented as a jewellike fragrance accessory, its glass bottle revealing a yellow juice beneath an organic pattern of golden webbing. At a presentation in Milan, Delettrez Fendi said she had drawn inspiration from Fendi’s exotic skins, and wanted the bottle to be ambiguous, possibly resembling a tortoise shell, scarab or butterfly. “I played a lot with relief and contrasts,” she noted.
To channel the brand’s wild side, Fendi tapped Polish-born Italian actress Kasia Smutniak for the perfume’s advertising campaign, which breaks with the product launch in print, on TV and on the Web. Shot by Ruth Hogben outside Rome at the Renaissance-era Villa Farnese, the campaign portrays Smutniak as an independent woman on the prowl.
“At the beginning, I wasn’t sure the name [which means furious in Italian] really reflected who I am, but in the end, thinking about it, I can relate to it very well. I think it reflects a woman who is free, instinctive, beautiful…the kind of woman I’d like to be, and try to be,” said Smutniak.
Fendi Perfumes international president Isabelle Gex said that with 2010’s Fan de Fendi, the brand had wanted to pay homage to its iconic baguette bag, and with last year’s L’Acquarossa scent, the goal was to “emphasize and mine [its] Roman roots.” Now, with Furiosa, the idea is to “capture the quintessence of the brand.”
“That’s why the animal domain, the wild aspect, this femininity seemed interesting to us, because it resonated perfectly with Fendi’s know-how in working with different materials, skins and furs,” Gex said, adding: “It’s a really strategic launch for us, both in terms of business and the symbolic value of the perfume.”
The edp will launch first in Italy, where it will be carried in about 1,500 doors, said LVMH Fragrance Brands general manager for Italy Beniamino Garofalo. He also said Milan would play an important role in the launch, which would tie in with the city’s September women’s fashion week. At the same time, the fragrance will hit shelves in the Middle East and Argentina, where Fendi’s brand awareness is particularly high, according to Gex, who added that Furiosa will reach other world markets in 2015, bringing the total door count to between 10,000 and 12,000.
She declined to discuss sales figures, indicating only that Fendi Perfumes had closed 2013 with turnover up 37 percent year-on-year. Industry sources suggested that Furiosa could earn 5 million euros, or $6.8 million, wholesale in its first year on the shelf, given the launch’s initially limited distribution.
Furiosa will be available in 30-ml., 50-ml. and 100-ml. bottles, retailing respectively for 60 euros (about $82 at current exchange), 84 euros (about $115) and 116 euros (about $159). Perfumer François Demachy created the juice, with top notes including pink pepper from the French island Réunion and Calabrian bergamot. The heart of the scent contains absolute Egyptian jasmine, matthiola incana and gardenia flowers, and the drydown is composed of Somali incense, guayacan from Paraguay and amber.
A bath line including a 100-ml. deodorant spray, 200-ml. shower gel and 200-ml. body lotion will also be in stores.