For fragrance companies, it could be a merry Christmas indeed: the market could be up 5 to 7 percent for the year when factoring in holiday sales, noted Carrie M. Mellage, director of consumer products for Kline Group, the consulting and research firm.
Mellage was speaking at the Fragrance Foundation’s annual State of the Industry lunch, held Thursday at the Harvard Club in Manhattan. “In 2011, fragrance growth exceeded the industry average for the first time in a decade,” she added, noting that fragrance comprises about 9 percent of the overall personal care market, estimated to be about $56 billion for 2011. However, “the U.S. overall beauty market has surpassed prerecession levels, but the fragrance market has not — yet,” she said. Overall U.S. fragrance sales peaked in 2007 at $5.9 billion and dipped to $5.2 billion in 2008, staying flat until this year. Retail fragrance sales are expected to hit $5.5 billion this year in the U.S. Kline attributes the growth to a number of factors, including “frugal fatigue,” interesting new launches and a boom in foreign tourism.
There have also been an avalanche of launches of late. Michael Edwards of Fragrancesoftheworld.info, a database of the fragrance world, noted that, year-to-date, 1,200 new fragrances have been launched in 2011, with 80 percent of them sold in the U.S. That was compared to 1,180 launched in 2010; 372 in 2001, and just 76 in 1991. Of the fragrances launched in 2011, 766 of them were women’s scents, 305 were men’s and 129 were unisex. While there were no limited edition scents and just three flankers launched in 1991, in 2001 there were 32 limited edition scents launched and 52 flankers. Those numbers skyrocketed to 144 limited edition scents and 188 flankers in 2011.
And while many observers are fond of taking potshots at the celebrity fragrance genre, Edwards said that its popularity showed no signs of abating, with 73 celebrity scents launched this year. Also speaking at the lunch were Wendy Liebmann, chief executive officer of WSL Strategic Retail, who noted that the economy has forced women to be smarter shoppers and employ frugal tactics, and Lynn Franco of the Conference Board, who noted that market trends such as weak job growth and cautious spending do not bode well for a major recovery of the market in the near future. The affluent and shoppers between the ages of 35 and 54 are expected to be the biggest beauty spenders for the holiday season, she said.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)