Fragrance pioneer Frédéric Malle has married his twin passions for perfume and architecture with the opening of his second New York store today.
Located at 94 Greenwich Avenue in Manhattan’s West Village, the 450-square-foot fragrance boutique signifies a new phase of his storied career. Malle has long characterized his firm as a publishing house that “publishes” the work of the world’s best perfumers. Now, he has also started showcasing the work of top architects in the form of new freestanding Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle stores, starting with the new shop on Greenwich Avenue. It was designed by Steven Holl, whom Malle described as “one of the greatest architects of our era.”
In addition, Malle showed that he has not lost sight of the fragrance side of his publishing house by launching a new fragrance, Eau de Magnolia, a fresh citrus chypre created with Carlos Benaim, a master perfumer at International Flavors & Fragrances.
Malle also showed a sentimental side by scheduling the opening of the West Village store for today, 14 years since he opened his first freestanding shop at 37 Rue de Grenelle in Paris.
This new store features a design that is intimate and warm but architecturally striking, giving the space a West Village vibe. The store has trademark Malle features — the portraits on the wall of the perfumers he has worked with and three smelling chambers in the back for customers to try out scents. There is even a private garden in the back for small, personal gatherings.
But the ceiling and walls are covered in an innovative, seldom-used material made of aluminum foam, making the ceiling look like a giant metallic sponge. The silver material on the walls is contrasted with dark walnut, which is used on shelving units, flooring, furniture and window treatments. The entire design — including built-in shelving, window design and even a table and a bench — have semicircle shapes. One of the most interesting accents is the indirect lighting system, created by renowned designer Hervé Descottes, which plays off the level of exterior sunlight, changing in intensity as the day progresses.
During a far-ranging interview, the conversation bounced from everything from perfume creation to store architecture to the state of the fragrance scene to the lack of editing and service in department stores, and even the challenges facing the industry in dealing with the rising tide of ingredient regulations.
Malle now has two stores in New York, three in Paris and one due to open in Rome in September. He said his next U.S. shop could either be in Los Angeles or Miami to cater to his strong Mexican and Brazilian following. In the future, he envisions two or three more stores in the U.S., one in Mexico and one in London.
In producing these stores, half of which he designs himself to give them the feeling of being at home in his apartment, he strives for a certain effect. “They have to take people out of their everyday lives and share a sense of beauty and luxury,” he said. “They are almost like gifts. [They] also paradoxically are places where you are being listened to. I don’t want these stores to be intimidating. I want people to feel welcome.”
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)