Gucci creative director Frida Giannini will make her mark on the fragrance arena with the September launch of Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme, her first men's scent developed from scratch. The Italian design house aims to establish the new men's scent, coupled with last fall's feminine counterpart, as the foundation upon which to build Gucci's entire fragrance business.
GENEVA — Flush from the success of her first women's scent, Gucci creative director Frida Giannini has tried her hand with a men's fragrance, Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme, which is slated to hit shelves in the fall.
Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme is the first men's scent that Giannini has created from scratch. In an exclusive interview with WWD, Giannini said the fragrance project captures her overall design concept.
"It completes my vision of the Gucci man I have worked on for the past two years...and now we are giving this Gucci man an iconic, contemporary fragrance," said Giannini.
Gucci will fete the launch of the fragrance with a private dinner and party after its men's fashion show on Monday.
The fragrance will be launched with high expectations. Although company executives would not discuss figures, industry sources estimate that its first-year retail sales could total $180 million to $200 million, based on Gucci by Gucci's success. The women's scent, which was launched last fall, reportedly is on track to generate $200 million in retail sales in its first 12 months.
"Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme will bring the whole Gucci men's fragrance category to another level," said Markus Strobel, global president, Procter & Gamble Prestige Products, Gucci's licensee.
Strobel added the launch together with last year's Gucci by Gucci women's fragrance would be an anchor to the brand's fragrance category.
"These are the two signature scents of the portfolio... everything else we will launch beyond that is going to build on the Gucci by Gucci franchise," said Strobel.
Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme's launch is slated for September, where in the U.S. the fragrance will be exclusive to Neiman Marcus. By mid-September distribution will extend to Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom and Bloomingdale's. A rollout plan from mid-October will enlarge distribution to 1,000 U.S. department stores. Globally the fragrance will arrive at 18,000 doors.Though neither Gucci nor Procter & Gamble would give financial indications on Gucci's fragrance category, both companies acknowledged the brand still had untapped potential.
"We are definitely satisfied with the results we have achieved in the last months," said Mark Lee, Gucci's chief executive officer, adding Gucci by Gucci had performed well in the U.K. and the U.S. "But this is a strategic category where we still have room to grow," added Lee.
When asked if Gucci fragrances could double their sales in the next five years, Strobel said: "I don't think this is impossible."
To achieve that, Strobel said P&G Prestige Products had a two-pronged approach. After it took over the Gucci fragrance license in April 2006, it cleaned up the distribution by closing up to 8,000 doors. "Step two is use the Gucci by Gucci fragrances to reestablish the full luxury image and positioning," said Strobel.
To that end, the Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme fragrance "reeks luxury" said Strobel.
Its flacon, designed by Frida Giannini, boasts a thick smoked glass silhouette, and is topped with a weighty silver cap crowned with Gucci's iconic horse-bit — which proved a challenge for P&G's industrial team to create, taking 15 months to finesse.
Giannini, who admitted she has become obsessed with the fragrance-making process since she took the reins on the category, said while perfecting the scent's juice, she tested it on male friends and colleagues.
Giannini stipulated the juice "absolutely had to be something quite fresh, modern with a touch of cypress and citrus — to link it back to the women's scent."
The end result, blended by P&G's fragrance team and Givaudan, is dubbed a "modernized woody chypre." Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme opens with bergamot, cypress and violet top notes, followed by heart notes of tobacco leaves and jasmine and base notes of patchouli, amber and elemi — an incense-like note taken from a tree. "The elemi note intrigued me because together with the tobacco it turns up the intensity of the perfume," said Giannini.
After the buzz of Gucci by Gucci's TV advertising campaign — a trio of dancing models directed by David Lynch — Gucci tapped actor James Franco to front its Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme launch.Shot in black and white, the TV spot depicts Franco — who bears a resemblance to James Dean — walking through an apartment, speaking lines to a faceless girlfriend from Bryan Ferry's song "Slave to Love." His dialogue is spliced with the song's soundtrack, covered by Welsh singer Roison Murphy. Director Jan Wentz shot the commercial in London, while photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin captured Franco for the print advertising campaign.
"I was interested in an emerging name, I like working with a new face to fully express my vision of the Gucci man," said Giannini, adding, "James has an intriguing air, he's very contemporary, natural and at the same time has an intriguing, seductive side."
Franco will take a front-row seat at Gucci's men's show on Monday and is also expected to attend the festivities later in the evening.
Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme's line includes eau de toilette spray, 1.7 oz. for $55 and a 3.0 oz. size for $70, after shave lotion 3.0 oz. for $55, after shave balm, 2.5 oz. for $38, shampoo, 6.7 oz. for $30 and deodorant stick, 2.5 oz. for $24.
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews