Estée Lauder is trying something completely different with its new women's fragrance, Sensuous. Instead of producing yet another floral, the brand is venturing onto a new olfactive turf with a woody amber scent set to launch in July. And hopes are high with first-year retail sales estimates running upward of $50 million for North America. Once the fragrance is rolled out internationally, the global total could slightly more than double the U.S. figure.
Estée Lauder is looking to a new olfactive family to boost its fragrance fortunes.
Unlike many past Lauder fragrances, Sensuous — a new scent the brand will launch in July — strays from the brand's traditional floral mode, moving the brand's sizable scent business into the woody amber family. None of the executives would comment on sales projections, although industry sources estimated that Sensuous could do upward of $50 million at retail in North America in its first year on counter — and estimated that once the fragrance is in global distribution next year, it could slightly more than double that number. That level of success could pump adrenaline into a fragrance industry that has been suffering for the past few years.
"We're trending in this rich direction to fill out gaps which exist in the Lauder fragrance world," said Evelyn Lauder, senior corporate vice president of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. "When we started life in the fragrance business, it was with a rich amber oriental [Youth Dew]. Then we went sporty with Aliage, and got deeply into florals with Beautiful. We've had a great deal of success over the years with florals, but we believe that this new olfactive area — woody amber — will make Sensuous a global hit."
John Demsey, one of the group presidents of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., who heads the Lauder brand, emphasized, "Estée Lauder is heavily penetrated in the floral category. A new entry in woods allows us to expand our portfolio and reach out to a new customer. Woods are a growing category in North America and an important opportunity in Europe." When asked what rub-off effect the launch may have on the rest of the brand, he added that it "is an evolution of the brand's core aspirational position – beauty and sensuality at any age. It's an important part of the strategy we've been implementing for the last two to three years."Turning to Lauder's other fragrances, Demsey said, "In 2007, Beautiful was the number one fragrance. Year to date 2008, the Beautiful core fragrance in North America is up 3.5 percent, Pleasures' core is up 1 percent and the Pleasures' franchise is up 7 percent."
"This is a new lane for us and an opportunity to reach not only our existing customers, but also new ones who may not be big floral fans," added Thia Breen, president of Estée Lauder Worldwide. Elana Drell-Szyfer, senior vice president of global marketing for Estée Lauder,said, "Sensuous, while being representative of the brand, is very different from other scents we've done."
Developed by Karyn Khoury, senior vice president of corporate fragrance development worldwide for Estée Lauder, and Evelyn Lauder, in cooperation with Firmenich's Annie Buzantian, Sensuous has top notes of ghost lily accord, magnolia and jasmine petals; a heart of molten woods and amber, and a drydown of sandalwood, black pepper, juicy mandarin pulp and honey.
Added Khoury, "We wanted to reinvent woods for women — the concept was to create a scent that evoked a molten river of woods. We felt that we had a real opportunity to broaden our reach with this fragrance."
National advertising, shot by Craig McDean, features Lauder's four spokesmodels — Gwyneth Paltrow, Elizabeth Hurley, Carolyn Murphy and Hilary Rhoda — each in various stages of undress with a white button-down shirt. "A white shirt is iconic all over the world," said Aerin Lauder, senior vice president and creative director of Estée Lauder, who created the campaign with Doug Lloyd of Lloyd & Co. "And since we believe this fragrance will have wide age appeal, it made sense to use all four of our spokesmodels, who are in their 20s, 30s and 40s. It embodies the idea of beauty at every age." Also, it is the first time that Rhoda has appeared in fragrance advertising for Lauder, she added.
Added Breen, "Hilary's idea of sensuous is different from Elizabeth's or Gwyneth's or Carolyn's, and vice versa. This campaign shows that clearly."
The tag line is "Estée Lauder Sensuous. Every Woman Wears It Her Way." The campaign will begin running in September fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, said Drell-Szyfer. Outdoor advertising and an Internet campaign will also be part of the marketing arsenal, she said.The Sensuous collection includes eaux de parfum in three sizes — 1 oz. for $39.50, 1.7 oz. for $49.50 and 3.4 oz. for $69.50 — as well as a 0.25-oz. parfum, $90; a 6.7-oz. body lotion, $37; a 6.7-oz. shower cream, $28.50; a 0.33-oz. touch-on fragrance, $39.50, and a 0.74-oz. brush-on perfumed pressed powder, $65.
The heavy glass bottle with waves, also designed by Lloyd & Co., has a rose-gold cap and the fragrance name in rich purple. Purple was chosen for many reasons, including the fact that "we wanted a color that would work with all of the rest of our fragrances," said Aerin Lauder.
Sensuous will be sold in about 2,100 North American department and specialty store doors. It will also launch in the United Kingdom, New Zealand, South Africa, Australia and Russia in July; additional countries — including those in continental Europe and Asia — are expected to get the scent in 2009.
While none of the executives would discuss advertising spending, industry sources estimated that about $20 million would be spent on advertising and promotion in North America in the fragrance's first year on counter.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews