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PARIS — Twenty years after launching the iconic L’Eau d’Issey women’s scent, Issey Miyake will introduce Pleats Please, a fragrance completely inspired by fashion.
This story first appeared in the July 27, 2012 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Pleats Please Issey Miyake is a departure from the Japanese brand’s other conceptual scents, some of which took a cue from L’Eau d’Issey, which was about the story of the scent of water on a woman’s skin.
“I think that when one asks a woman if she knows Issey Miyake, she would say, ‘Yes, I know two things — Pleats Please and L’Eau d’Issey,’” explained Nathalie Helloin Kamel, vice president of Parfums Issey Miyake and Elie Saab at Beauté Prestige International, a unit of Shiseido. “Therefore, we decided to gather these two universes to create a new chapter in the life of Issey Miyake fragrances.”
The designer’s pleated clothing was first created for a ballet at the request of choreographer William Forsythe in the Nineties.
“Little by little it was integrated into [Miyake’s] work…until it became a real line unto itself,” said Kamel.
Specifically, inspiration for the fragrance was gleaned from Miyake’s Bao Bao bag.
“This bag has a particularity: When you throw it down, it takes a form absolutely any which way, with these types of facets that take like a sculpture’s shape,” she continued.
Another divergence from the past is Pleats Please’s juice, created by Givaudan perfumer Aurélien Guichard. Whereas L’Eau d’Issey is fresh, Pleats Please is more of a floral fruity.
“We have this nashi, a Japanese fruit inside that gives a real different to this fragrance,” said Kamel. “It’s really about joy, femininity, elegance and addiction.”
The scent’s other notes include peony, sweet pea, cedar, patchouli and white musks, plus an absolute of white vanilla and indole.
The advertising, lensed by Nick Knight, features a dancing model sporting various colorful Pleats Please outfits. It comes in 10-, 20- and 30-second video spots that will be aired online and on TV in markets outside of the Americas. The print image comes in single and double pages.
Pleats Please’s international launch will include a four-week exclusive at Australia’s Myer starting Aug. 4. The introduction in Switzerland is later in August, followed by a September debut in France, Spain and Asia. In the first half of 2013, the U.S., Canada and Italy will get the scent, followed by Germany, the U.K. and Belgium later in the year.
In France, the 100-, 50- and 30-ml. eau de toilette versions will retail for 92, 62 and 45 euros, or $113.10, $76.20 and $55.30, respectively.
BPI executives would not divulge sales estimates, but industry sources expect Pleats Please to ring up $60 million in retail sales during 2013.