PARIS — Seventeen years after introducing the blockbuster fragrance L’Eau d’Issey, Parfums Issey Miyake will launch A Scent By Issey Miyake for women this fall.
This story first appeared in the July 24, 2009 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
“The first objective is to bring back newness to the brand,” said Nathalie Helloin-Kamel, president of Parfums Issey Miyake, which is part of Beauté Prestige International. She explained A Scent is for women receptive to Issey Miyake’s approach — essential and simple luxury — including those who may not yet have found an olfactive offer suitable to them in the brand’s fragrance portfolio.
Whereas L’Eau d’Issey is a floral aquatic scent with a woody trail, A Scent is a green floral woody fragrance.
Helloin-Kamel said creating an Issey Miyake scent means getting to the heart of the brand. “It is really to express a vision of the designer,” she explained. “All the exchanges we had were around one subject — the essential.”
For example, Miyake didn’t want a fragrance that tells a complicated story, she said. “There were some very important ideas for him, as well: That there is lots of air and space,” she said, noting Miyake wanted people to have the sensation of being on a plain in Mongolia, for instance, where there is nature — the green ground, blue sky and a very fresh breeze.
“He had lots of notions of nature,” said Helloin-Kamel, adding A Scent’s juice — created by Firmenich perfumer Daphné Bugey — focuses on leaves, flowers and wood. Specifically, notes include two types of jasmine, musk, galbanum, lemon verbena, hyacinth, cedar wood and crystal moss.
Helloin-Kamel said there is a common point in all Issey Miyake juices: “They are fresh fragrances with a strong signature.”
The extruded, streamlined bottle design, created by Arik Levy, of L Design, came from the idea of what’s essential, as well. “What is a flacon when it comes down to it? It’s a block of glass,” said Helloin-Kamel.
Viewed from the front, A Scent bottles of various sizes look the same height and width. However, from the side, the 50-ml. version has a different length than the 150-ml. version, for instance.
The bottle stars in the advertising photographed by Hiroshi Iwasaki, which comes in single and double pages, among other formats.
There will be heavy sampling for A Scent, including minisprays and LiquaTouch, plus online operations.
The fragrance is to be introduced in Saks Fifth Avenue in the U.S. on Aug. 1, Galeries Lafayette’s Paris flagship on Aug. 10, Harrods in London on Aug. 16 and Isetan in Shinjuku, Japan, on Aug. 26. The rest of the world will get A Scent starting in early September.
Although Issey Miyake executives would not divulge sales estimates, industry sources believe A Scent will generate $80 million in retail sales during its first year.
Prices in France are to be 65 euros, or $92.50 at current exchange, for a 50-ml. eau de toilette spray; 90 euros, or $128, for a 100-ml. eau de toilette spray, and 115 euros, or $163.60, for a 150-ml. eau de toilette spray. Ancillaries include a 200-ml. shower gel for 32 euros, or $45.50, a 200-ml. moisturizing milk for the body for 36 euros, or $51.20, and a 100-ml. spray deodorant for 30 euros, or $42.70.