BERLIN — The angular, refined simplicity of Jil Sander is back — this time in a bottle. A new men’s fragrance launching this month, called Ultrasense, marks the first scent to be released under Sander’s name since she returned to her label in 2012.
“I was thinking of a certain kind of men and what they have in common,”stated Sander. “They are successful not because they like success or money or other riches. They succeed because they never followed the crowd, but set out for their own vision. I feel an affinity to this kind of man, since I chose to fight for my ideas as well.”
Ultrasense also represents an intense partnership between Sander and license holder Coty Prestige, which started moving forward on the design aspects of a previously planned project at the same time Sander was returning to her fashion house. Meeting every month or more during the eight-month development period, Sander was specific about every aspect, explained Edgar de Trentinian, marketing director of Jil Sander fragrances for Coty Prestige. Her vision was of a modern, pure and valuable end product true to her aesthetic of understatement.
“She pays a lot of attention to detail — from the overall weight of the bottle, the proportions…the weight of the cap, the sound that it makes when you put it on the table. Every detail was really scrutinized,” he recalled, noting she even insisted that the thin, almost unseen edges of the paper box that holds the fragrance were painted blue — the needle-thin thread of white they gave to the packaging was unacceptable.
Tailoring the juice inside was the purview of Givaudan perfumer Olivier Pescheux. Coding the idea of a modern Sander suit into scent notes resulted in a precise blend of bergamot and black pepper top notes that merge into fir balsam and sage heart notes, with a drydown of white musk.
“To me, Jil Sander represents elegant style, pure design lines and high-quality materials,” said Pescheux. The Ultrasense bottle is also clearly and subtly drawn. The rectangular bottle is translucent at the top and enameled at the bottom — in blue, but not just any blue, says de Trentinian. “There was a very specific blue she wanted to have — a sapphire blue — [Sander] sent us a color swatch to match it exactly,” he said. A navy blue rounded cap tops things off.Ultrasense eau de toilette comes in 40-, 60- and 90-ml. sizes, priced at 39.50 euros ($52), 55 euros ($72.50) and 75 euros ($99), respectively. Additionally, a 100-ml. aftershave is available for 55 euros ($72.50), a 150-ml. shower gel for 11.50 euros ($15) and a deodorant stick for 19 euros ($25).
Lensed by David Sims, the face of the scent is American model Sean O’Pry, who has also appeared in campaigns for Kenzo and Lucky Brand.
Ultrasense will be launched late this month, starting in the key markets of Germany, Switzerland, Austria and Benelux and moving on through Europe. About a month later, the scent will enter Hong Kong. Coty plans to introduce the range of Jil Sander fragrances in China in the near future; the fashion house started business there about a year ago, and the scent line should have a good platform and visibility through that, said de Trentinian.
Additionally, Ultrasense will be sold in Jil Sander flagship stores, including the two in New York and the one in Chicago, as well as in the brand’s U.K. shops-in-shop found in Selfridges. Travel retail will also be viewed strategically and selectively, focused around the core markets, and countries the residents of those markets tend to visit, such as Spain. Depending on performance, distribution for Ultrasense may broaden into Poland, Hungary, Czech Republic and Slovakia, de Trentinian said.
There are high expectations for the new launch — a top-five position in core markets, according to de Trentinian. Coty declined to comment on potential sales figures for Ultrasense, but industry sources estimate $15 million at retail the first year in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and the Benelux countries combined (including travel retail in the region).
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews