PARIS — John Galliano’s new women’s fragrance, Parlez-Moi d’Amour, is meant to woo the 16- to 30-year-old set, starting in mid-October.
This story first appeared in the September 24, 2010 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
It’s the first major project created by Perfume Holding since it united Selective Beauty and Morris Profumi’s businesses, according to Enrico Ceccato, president and chief executive officer of the company.
Perfume Holding executives worked closely with Galliano on every step of the new fragrance’s conception.
“John said, ‘I would like to have a love story,’” explained Brigitte Wormser, vice president creation at Perfume Holding.
Galliano also identified Taylor Momsen as the scent’s face. In the story line he dreamed up to inspire the fragrance’s development, Momsen is a rocker (like she is in real life) who’d been gigging around the world and finds herself in Berlin, out of contact with everyone she knows. Cut off from modern technology, too, Momsen’s obliged to write to her love in the old-fashioned way — by hand.
“For a love letter, you need an envelope. So we designed a ‘bottle envelope,’” said Wormser, referring to Parlez-Moi d’Amour’s rectangular flacon made to resemble a sealed envelope. It has a stamp that’s printed with flowers appearing on a fabric the designer used in his apparel.
Parlez-Moi d’Amour, the fragrance name, comes from a song written by Jean Lenoir in 1930. (In English, it means Speak to Me of Love.)
International Flavors & Fragrances’ Aliénor Massenet concocted the scent.
Parlez-Moi d’Amour is a floral, fruity chypre, including notes of ginger, blueberry, Turkish rose and jasmine Sambac. Massenet replaced the traditional oak moss note from a chypre structure with cypress absolute.
Single-page advertising for the fragrance was shot by Ellen von Unwerth and will appear mostly in France. Countrywide, the budget earmarked for its media campaign — including digital platforms and radio, as well — exceeds 3 million euros, or $3.9 million at current exchange, according to Stéphane Bonnet, marketing director at Perfume Holding.
Elsewhere, there is to be a strong online push. A video starring Momsen and another featuring the fragrance bottle are set to appear globally.
Parlez-Moi d’Amour will hit France, the U.K., Switzerland, Belgium and the Middle East in mid-October. Its launch in other countries, including the U.S., is slated for early spring.
Galliano’s current fragrance offer includes a signature scent (targeting a more mature consumer) in eau de parfum and eau de toilette forms, which are in 3,000 doors. By yearend, the fragrance brand should be carried in 5,500 to 6,000 sales points worldwide, said Bonnet.
Parlez-Moi d’Amour will come as 30-, 50- and 80-ml. edt sprays, which are to retail in France for 39 euros, or $52; 55 euros, or $73.30, and 65 euros, or $86.65, respectively.
Perfume Holding executives would not discuss projections, but industry sources estimate Parlez-Moi d’Amour will generate 10 million euros, or $13.3 million, in first-year wholesale revenues worldwide.
In a nod to the fragrance, Ladurée pastry shops will from mid-October through Christmas sell macaroons flavored with rose and ginger. They’ll be packaged in Galliano-designed boxes.